When I moved back to Far North Queensland a few years ago, I knew something was missing from my understanding of this place I called home. I’d read about the Bama people—the traditional custodians of this land—but their stories often came filtered through secondary sources. I wanted to hear their folklore firsthand to get a better understanding of the country I’m in.
There are several Aboriginal tours from Cairns, but perhaps the most well-known is Juan Walker’s Walkabout Cultural Adventures. Just an hour’s drive from Port Douglas, Juan and his team invite visitors into one of my favourite places in the world, the Daintree Rainforest, where their culture has thrived for thousands of years.
Over the course of a day, we learned to see the region through Bama eyes, sharing stories and bushcraft, and learning the art of spearfishing for the FNQ delicacy, mud crabs!
If you’re planning a trip to FNQ and are wondering whether Walkabout Cultural Adventures lives up to its hype, this review will share exactly what our day looked like to give you an idea of what to expect.
Who are the Bama mob?
It still bedazzles me that Aboriginal peoples have lived in Australia for at least 65,000 years, making it the world’s oldest continuously surviving culture. In the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area alone, which extends about 485km- from Cardwell to Cooktown- there are at least 20 Rainforest Aboriginal tribal groups. They represent diverse cultures and languages, and each have multiple clans, or over 100 collectively.
Bama literally means ‘rainforest people’ and refers to the Indigenous peoples of Far North Queensland, who once lived and foraged throughout these lush ranges and coastal areas. They still maintain a deep connection to the land, a strong knowledge of the environment and a respect for important sacred ancestral sites.
Being based in Port Douglas, I wanted to keep things local and head out with the Eastern Kuku Yalanji mob, whose land extends from Jabukanji (Port Douglas) to Cooktown on the east side of these lush ranges.
Why Walkabout Cultural Adventures?
For a while, I taught at a small school in Mossman, which is half hour away from Port Douglas and within the foothills of the Daintree Rainforest. One of my incredibly sweet kids said that on weekends, he often went fishing for mud crabs with his family and cooked them over the fire. He was related to the owner of this tour group.
Walkabout Cultural Adventures is 100% Aboriginal-owned and operated, and run by Juan Walker, who is a bit of a local legend around here. He is a Kuku Yalaji man who grew up in Mossman, and the Walkers are a prominent Aboriginal family in the area.
You may have seen Juan before on telly as he’s been in quite a few tourism promos— featuring on the Amazing Race Australia, giving a ‘Welcome to Country’, the Project’s special episode ‘The Lucky Country’, and even giving a tour to Nick ‘Honeybadger’ Cummins for a Nat Geo special, among others. Juan’s a great guy, and as a former local, I’d only heard positive things about his tours.
Admittedly, I was hesitant to book at first, as the experience was on the pricey side ($180 for a half-day, which you’d expect to pay for a full-day reef trip). Juan kindly offered 15% off when I inquired about a local’s discount, which was really sweet and made it more affordable. I did this tour in 2021, but now it’s cheaper, and I think it’s well-priced for what it offers.
Ngana Julaymba Dungay! (we all going Daintree)
The Sailor and I booked the half-day Daintree tour and were picked up from home at 8 am sharp. Our tour guide, Aaron, was incredibly friendly and had the gift of the gab. From the moment we climbed into the van, he was yarning with us and pointing out unfamiliar sights along the way.
We told him about all the hikes we’d done around Port Douglas until now. He pointed to Wundu (Thornton Peak) in the Daintree and said it’s a sacred mountain that his people are not allowed to climb (it’s about a 3-day, 24k return hardcore hike that requires a permit). It used to be a burial site for the Western Kuku Yalanji, he explained, who were laid to rest around the base of the mountain.
We made a quick stop at an awesome little farm shop and picked up some tropical fruit before collecting the last family near Daintree Village. To provide more personalised trips, group sizes are kept small, with a maximum of 11 people—we had just 10 that morning, and everyone was lovely.
As we crossed a nearby bridge, Aaron glanced quickly towards the sandbanks and said, “Look over there, that’s Howard”. He reversed the van to give us a better look.
Howard was resting motionless on the sandbanks, so well camouflaged that the Sailor couldn’t see him. Like many saltwater crocodiles around here, he’s well known by the locals and affectionately given a human name. We took a detour down a dirt path to get a closer look, but Howard must have heard us coming as he was already gone by the time we reached the end.
“Later, we can take a look and see if Scarface is in the Daintree River,” Aaron added. As the name suggests, Scarface is a beefy male saltie, over 5 metres long!
Bushcraft
Aaron told us early on that his boss had given him some snacks to pass around and asked us to let him know when to stop so we could eat them, as he has a habit of talking too much and gets carried away. He was clearly passionate and knowledgeable about his land and a well-versed storyteller.
He made a number of stops on the bus to show us a range of medicinal plants and bush tucker. I didn’t know we had so much growing here—like wild passionfruit and tamarind, found just at the side of the road.
Aaron stopped the van and tugged a branch of leaves off a tree to show us how it can be used to repel mosquitoes and moisturise the skin. It was from the Milky Pine tree. Just by adding water and rubbing the leaves together, we watched wide-eyed as they magically frothed into a natural soap. It was really cool!
Equally impressive was the lipstick bean. He opened it, stuck a stick inside to mix up the contents, then rubbed it onto our hands to show us the surprise. It was a shade of bright orange that only nature could produce, with the colour and texture of lipstick. Aaron explained, “The only problem is that it’s hard to rub off if you put it on your lips!” I replied that women pay a lot of money for lipstick that doesn’t come off! It’d be way cheaper than Chanel. 😉
It was at that point that I started to wish I’d done this tour when I first arrived back in Port Douglas. Even though the Sailor and I have gone walkabout in this rainforest more times than we can count (Aaron said more times than him), there’s so much growing in the Daintree that I didn’t even know about, and I left with more questions than when I came.
Before we continued on, the Sailor let out a bit of a cough (he has a twitchy cough that I find annoying, lol), and Aaron told him that he knew something to get rid of it later. What he showed us was the most impressive thing of all! But I won’t spoil the surprise by telling you the whole tour, as it wouldn’t be fair to Aaron and Walkabout.
Telling you though, if you have an ailment, Aaron knows how to solve it.
After quite a bit of time on the bus, we stopped to eat our tropical fruit. Being locals, we’d eaten most of it before, apart from the Rollinia (part of the custard apple family—quite delicious). It was fun trying the black sapote again, which we’d only hesitantly eaten once years ago. Admittedly, it doesn’t look the most appetising and has a thick, buttery texture, but it tastes like chocolate pudding. It’s even better in ice cream.
Sacred Healing
Refuelled and on a sugar high, Aaron asked if we wanted to visit a special healing place in the rainforest. He explained that this ancient, sacred site is where Kuku Yalanji women have come for generations to bathe in waters believed to have healing properties. They call it Wawu Karrba—’healing of the spirit’. This was women’s business, he explained, so all the men would have to wait respectfully outside.
Hidden beneath a small waterfall at the Daintree Ecolodge & Spa, the waterhole is just a 200-metre walk through the forest. The Sailor and I had actually honeymooned at this lodge a few years ago, but had no idea this sacred spot existed. Standing barefoot in this fairy falls with the water trickling downstream, I could feel a peaceful energy here. And you don’t need to be a lodge guest to experience it—this spot is open to everyone.
The Dark Spirit of Jabukanji
Walker describes Jabukanji as the heart of Bama spiritual and political life: “It was our High Court, cathedral, war memorial and Embassy rolled into one.” For countless generations, it was where law was made, diplomacy conducted, and young men initiated into ancient ceremonies that would echo through the night for days on end.
Then in 1988, without consultation or consideration, developers built a resort on this sacred ground. Walker continues, “The entire Bama community were horrified that the resort was constructed in close proximity to a known ceremonial and burial site. During construction, human remains were unearthed and disturbed. There was no attempt to reconcile or renavigate the building process or to ensure that the human remains were reburied with any respect… As far as the local Aboriginal people are concerned, a great dark cloud hangs over the whole complex.
The resort that stands here is the Sheraton Mirage, one of the most popular hotels in the region, where thousands of holidaymakers stay each year.
The wound remains raw. Bama children still feel uneasy attending school events at the resort, carrying the grief of their elders. Parents and grandparents cannot bring themselves to enter a place where their ancestors’ bones were treated with such disregard.
Yet Walker holds onto hope. He envisions a future where tourism operators will finally consult with Elders, where the spirit of Jabukanji might be acknowledged and honoured, and where Bama children can once again come to learn “the art of performance, ceremony and culture” without the shadow of the past hanging over them.
As we returned to the start of the trail, Aaron was scouting the trees to see if he could find the Boyd’s Forest Dragon in his usual spot. He explained that it’s his clan’s totem.
For Aboriginal peoples, a totem can be a plant, natural object, or animal that’s inherited by a clan or family and becomes their spiritual emblem. If it’s an animal, they’re not allowed to eat it, and they’re given caretaking responsibilities for it, among other things.
I love how sustainable and respectful Bama are towards the animals and plants they consume. They ensure they harvest seasonally and don’t overexploit any particular species so that populations can continue to flourish in the wild.
While the region is still a biodiversity hotspot, with one of the highest numbers of endemic mammals in Australia, wildlife populations have significantly declined since European settlement due to habitat loss, introduced species like feral cats, and changed fire regimes. Thankfully, land management is steadily improving as Bama knowledge and practices are integrated into conservation efforts through partnerships with scientists and Indigenous Ranger Programs (IRP).
Crabbing
Everyone was really looking forward to catching crabs (not that kind, lol). Spearfishing for mud crabs is advertised online as a tour activity, although nothing was mentioned that morning, probably because time got the better of us. When another guest asked if it was still going ahead, Aaron said he was going to take us to Mossman Gorge next, but was more than happy to change plans. He even said he’d still take us to the Gorge as our final stop, finishing up around 2-3. I thought that was really sweet of him to offer, as the tour was supposed to end at 1 pm.
Spearfishing took place on Cooya Beach, a popular hangout for mud crabs, as the south end is bordered by mangroves. Aaron began with a demo on two different ways to throw the spear. Everyone did pretty well, but I sucked a bit, lol!
I was really interested to learn that it was Chinese immigrants who improved spearfishing practices for the Kuku Yalanji. They brought over bamboo, which was lighter, less prone to breaking from impact and floated on the water. Its use was quickly adopted widely throughout the region.
As the tide had receded, we walked out about 500 metres so that the water was below knee deep yet still visible to spot the mud crabs. You want to avoid coming out here when the water is waist-deep, as there might be a 4-meter lizard hanging out by the river mouth. He is seldom spotted going for a leisurely swim early in the morning on a high tide. But don’t worry, in shallow water you’ll see the fella coming!
The Aboriginal kids in my class said they love eating mud crabs and that they are good at catching them. I told them that when Ms Sherri ate one, it was very expensive at the restaurant! (It set me back $80!). Now I know why— they’re not the easiest to find or catch, but the fun is in the search.
The kids on the trip absolutely loved being on the beach and having a go, and the guys were all in hunter-gatherer mode. Then, just as the Sailor thought he had a good spot for finding one, it was time to go.
After our busy and eventful morning, we were ready for lunch. We all agreed that we could end the tour here as we’d each been to Mossman Gorge before. However, if you haven’t been, this is a great opportunity to come for a walk (there are several trails) and a swim. It’s such a stunning spot, with some intriguing fauna, and it feels almost spiritual here.
Final thoughts
Most people who come to Port Douglas and the Daintree only see it through the eyes of a tourist. And while we can appreciate the region’s beauty, there’s much more to Jabukanji than Four Mile Beach and the high-end tourism sector that exists here.
There were still many questions I had about Bama’s history, like the hard truths of the past, but a part of me didn’t feel right asking some of them on this trip. Which was a missed opportunity, perhaps, as I’m sure Aaron would have been more than happy to answer.
I did the tour a few months before I left Queensland, but I really wish I had done it sooner. Not only was it a really fun day out, but I learnt a lot about bushcraft and gained insight into Kuku Yalanji culture and beliefs.
An indigenous tour like this was really grounding, almost like a spiritual welcoming to country. Bama heritage is as rooted here as the trees, and it was really refreshing to experience a place I adore from a new perspective. ✤
Bookings
When I did the tour back in 2021, it cost $180 for a half-day tour. The tours are much cheaper now, which I think was a good call, as they were on the expensive side. Now I think they’re very good value for money.
Here are the two tours they offer.
- The half-day Daintree tour that we did is currently listed on Viator for $125 – book here.
- The full-day tour is also a reasonable $160, which takes you deeper into the Daintree and up to Cape Tribulation (it also includes a simple lunch) – book here.
If I were to do it again, I would go for the full day. Not only to maximise the experience, but north of the Daintree River crossing is my favourite portion of the National Park, and this option includes more guided walks.
- For more info, visit Walkabout’s website, or check them out on Get Your Guide.
How to get here
Port Douglas is only an hour’s drive from Cairns. If you’re not renting a car, there are multiple shuttle buses that run regularly from Cairns and Palm Cove. Check out SR Coaches, who I’ve used in the past (about $65 pp return), and Exemplar Coaches, who also have a good reputation ($23 pp one-way).
Walkabout Cultural Adventures offers free pickup from Port Douglas, Mossman, or the Daintree Village. If you’re on an 8:00 am tour, then I’d recommend staying overnight.
Where to stay
As a well-established town, Port Douglas has no shortage of hotels and apartments, and would be the easiest place to base yourself. Check out my tips on places to stay when you’re in town, or head straight to Booking.com.
Julaymba (Daintree)
He was born (Nyulu balkjajin)
In the rainforest (Marrjanga)
Under the arms (Bada bada)
Of a big old tree (Jukungu)
By the river (Wawu bajanga)
Julaymba (Julaymba)
On its way (Dungan dungay)
To the sea (Jalunbu)
They cut the birth cord
In ceremony (Ngunyin yakan)
And tied it to that tree (Kajan jukungu)
Jankiba
Jankiba
Living (in) my memory (Kari milka wulay)
Excerpt of a poem by Karanba (Bennet Walker)
As always, my trip with Walkabout Cultural Adventures was not comped, and all views are my own – I pay my way so that I get the same authentic experience you do. In this article, I’ve included some useful links so you can easily book your trip with Walkabout, which are affiliate links, at no cost to you. Thank you for supporting Travel Mermaid.