When I was running The Glass House in Western Australia, we had the loveliest group from Moldova stay with us for New Year. They gifted us with a tasty bottle of Moldovan iced wine and said that in their culture, where you stay and what you are doing for New Year’s sets the tone for the entire year, which is what drew them to our relaxed ocean retreat.
Wind forward four years, and this secluded cove is where we found ourselves. It was our last day on the island, and we were heading to one of the northern beaches on Koh Phangan’s West Coast. We’d come to find that many were awash with greenish water from temporary algae blooms, so the Sailor trailed his finger up the coast and paused at a speck that’s easy to miss.
Tucked away in the north between the more local Chaloklum and Bottle Beach, we made our way to Haad Khom, about 25 minutes away from Sri Tanu. If this is how my year is potentially going to pan out, then please, dear God, if you’re listening, sign me the hell up!
I’ve visited the island multiple times now, and seen most of its gorgeous coast, but this is the first time I’ve come to Haad Khom. I’d never heard of it before, as it’s quite off the radar and doesn’t get as much attention as some other popular spots on the island. Being out of the way works in its favour, and I doubt the expat locals rave about it to keep it that way.
Just like all other major Thai islands, Koh Phangan has continued to see significant development over the past 8 years. I honestly didn’t recognise much of the West Coast because of all the new houses and businesses, and there’s still a lot more under construction. Obviously being Christmas on top of it, it was a lot busier than usual, which is why I loved coming here.
Haad Khom beach was a really chilled-out spot where mostly the local crew hang out. It was us with the hippie folks and long-time expats, and the odd chainsmoking pot-head with a perpetual smile on his face. There was no pretentiousness or loud beach bars playing music. Just a couple of cool beach cafes, massage shacks and boho bungalows to stay overnight. Perhaps, reminiscent of what KP used to exude in abundance before it was firmly put on the tourist map.
New Year’s Day here was one highlight of our holiday and a great place to kick back and relax before returning to a polluted, chaotic Saigon. In between reading pages of my book, I was dreaming about where I’ll be in a few months’ time. Like my Moldovan guests, I’d like to believe their New Year tradition holds some weight.
A few months ago, I decided not to renew my contract at school, so the Sailor and I are still deciding where we’ll go next. I’d be lying if I said that somewhere in Thailand wasn’t a consideration. The Sailor and I have always wanted to come back to Siam since we lived in Pattaya a decade ago, preferably to one of the islands.
Haad Khom beach is one of the least developed beaches in Koh Phangan, so it’s one of the few places that has retained an authentic charm. I met the owner of a gorgeous eco-retreat, and she’s been running the place for 27 years! She was so lovely and still enthusiastic to chat with guests.
I have to say, this is also one of the best-looking beaches in Koh Phangan and Koh Samui combined, and one of the few places where you can snorkel from just off it. We were out by the reef for about 90 minutes, and I got carried away near the buoys, not realising the tide was drifting out. It wasn’t the Great Barrier Reef, but it gave me all those warm fuzzy feels, which I haven’t had since visiting the Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia. Some of the marine life was pretty cool- I saw my first pufferfish 🐡 and an enormous plate coral.
The best time to visit Haad Khom here is outside of the monsoon season between December and April, when it’s not too hot and the waters is nice and calm for snorkelling.
As well as Thong Nai Pan on Koh Phangan’s secluded east coast, I think this is another wonderful place to base yourself on the island if you’re seeking relaxation. I wish I’d booked the second half of my holiday here, or at least a few days. I really didn’t want to leave! ✤
Where to stay on Haad Khom beach?
If you’re coming to Haad Khom, I’d definitely recommend booking one of the two lovely-looking bungalows that are right on the beach. There are a few stays just beyond the beach, which you may want to consider if these two are booked out.
- Ocean Experience
The owner of Ocean Experience, Bovy, is so lovely and kind, and has been running the place for over 27 years! She’s created a wonderful eco-conscious retreat on the west side of the beach. The rooms are respectful to nature and blend in seamlessly.
I inquired about one to take a look, but Bovy was full at the time. From the pictures, the natural bungalows look like simple luxury with a lovely boho design. They have an onsite shala too and periodically host yoga classes and retreats.
We enjoyed some smoothies and iced coffees at their dry cafe, Ocean View Restaurant, perched up just in front of the beach. It also serves tasty, nutritious food using locally sourced produce.
// Head to their website for more info, direct bookings only. Bovy said to send her a WhatsApp message (number on their page) or send an inquiry via the contact form.
- Coconut Beach Bungalows
The other great-looking stay here is called Coconut Beach Bungalows. As another eco-conscious space, they are 100% solar-powered (which is probably a good idea considering its location), and all water is generated on-site. They have a restaurant in front which uses food from their organic farm.
Right on the sand just in front of their resort, they have a cute, boho-chic massage cafe, the first of its kind I’ve been to. The massage was delightful. They also have a private pool on site for guests, as well as a mini gym if you need to move your chops a bit.
// Rooms start at 6’000 thb per night ($270 AUD/£140). Direct bookings only through their website, or via Airbnb.
Snorkelling 🐡
It’s only possible to snorkel on Haad Khom beach high tide, otherwise it gets too shallow. If I weren’t an experienced snorkeller, I probably would have been freaking out at hovering so close to the coral, as my body was less than 30 centimetres away.
I saw one German guy walking on the reef for a good 10 minutes before finally plonking himself in deeper water for a swim. 🤦🏻♀️ This is probably one reason why much of the inner coral was dead. Climate change is another factor too, which is particularly damaging to shallower reef spots such as this.
To find the better coral, head further out, just before the buoys. This is one of the spots that the smaller long-tail boats come with people on a snorkelling trip. I saw large mouri wrasse, schools of rainbow fish and parrotfish, and my first pufferfish! And corals of all kinds- hard folks such as plate coral (including a giant one), brain, finger and staghorn, and some anemone softies.
Haad Khom Map
For all you visual planners, here’s a map of the beach with all the recommendations pinned for ease of access. You can also open it up on Google Maps and use it on the road, just hit the top right button.
How to get to Haad Khom?
Getting here is a 25-minute drive from Sri Thanu. Check out the map above to find out where to park, or just navigate to the beach and stop where you see other scooters parked. From there, there’s a clear forest path (pictured) leading down to the beach, which takes about 2 mins.
You can also get a taxi boat here from Chaloklum Beach, which costs about 150 thb p/p each way.
Due to the accessibility of this beach, it may not be suitable to those who are less mobile.
How to get to Koh Phangan?
Check out my dedicated article on how to get to the island!
What to do nearby
The top end of the island is generally for quiet island life, but if you need to stretch your legs, there’s a couple of hiking trails from Haad Khom:
- The easier trail to Mae Haad Beach.
- The harder hike to Bottle Beach viewpoint, or take a slightly shorter loop hike there.
You may also fancy driving to Chaloklum Beach for a walk around, where there are plenty of restaurants and beach cafes (we really enjoyed brunch at Kaif).
Between late November and January, you can also catch the NE / ENE wind for some kiteboarding action on Malibu Beach- check out the legend Justin at Siam Pro Kite for lessons and more info.
How to get to Haad Khom?
Getting here is a 25-minute drive from Sri Thanu. Check out the map above to find out where to park, or just navigate to the beach and stop where you see other scooters parked. From there, there’s a clear forest path (pictured) leading down to the beach, which takes about 2 mins.
You can also get a taxi boat here from Chaloklum Beach, which costs about 150 thb p/p each way.
Due to the accessibility of this beach, it may not be suitable to those who are less mobile.
How to get to Koh Phangan?
Check out my dedicated article on how to get to the island!
What to do nearby
The top end of the island is generally for quiet island life, but if you need to stretch your legs, there’s a couple of hiking trails from Haad Khom:
- The easier trail to Mae Haad Beach.
- The harder hike to Bottle Beach viewpoint, or take a slightly shorter loop hike there.
You may also fancy driving to Chaloklum Beach for a walk around, where there are plenty of restaurants and beach cafes (we really enjoyed brunch at Kaif).
Between late November and January, you can also catch the NE / ENE wind for some kiteboarding action on Malibu Beach- check out the legend Justin at Siam Pro Kite for lessons and more info.