Last weekend, I went on one of the most relaxing jungle retreats in Malaysia. Since moving to Kuala Lumpur, the jungle has become my favourite place to be. I’m fortunate enough that my condo faces one, and I can’t go a week without getting a weekly jungle run fix! For ages, I’ve dreamt about taking things one step further and sleeping in it too.

If you prowl the internet for jungle stays near KL, you’ll find heaps of results. But the only one that ticked every box for me was The Dusun.

This place was appealing because of their comfy, self-catering bungalows (with a private bathroom… no sharing for me!), complete with a BBQ and undisturbed forest views. Plus, unlike some of the other retreats I found, they’re not really a place where huge [annoying] groups come for vacations, and are great value for money for what they offer.

Just a mere 1.5-hour car ride south of Kuala Lumpur will lead you to The Dusun, perched opposite the hilly Berembun Forest Reserve in Seremban. The resort has been strategically positioned not only to be amidst nature, but to have complete views of it.

Upon arrival, we were greeted with panoramic vistas of tropical green foliage, with only the sound of cicadas gently buzzing amongst the trees. It was utterly therapeutic.

The living room was open-plan, with no windows or doors, allowing the gentle breeze to keep us cool. We were shown around the spacious house by the friendly reservation manager, and before she left, I coyly asked, “Is there a key to the house?”

“No”, she replied, smiling.

I knew it was a daft question before I asked it… There’s no front door! I refrained from asking about the internet too.

We were in the middle of nowhere, and it was perfect.

At sunset, the resort staff came to light our BBQ and provided coal for a modest 20RM.

Whilst the Sailor cooked up some tasty lamb cutlets, I sat facing nature speaking to my sister as the noisy bugs woke up in song. Even though she loved the picture of where I was, I told her that she probably wouldn’t be able to cope with all the bugs around! (She’s from London and squeals at the smallest insect.)

We had quite a few uncoordinated cicadas, beetles and other unidentified bugs pay us a visit on the first night, as well as a couple of swooping bats. But we stupidly had all the lights on. (The second night was much better as we turned them off!)

The resort has two well-maintained infinity pools that boast the same panoramic views. We only had one full day, so we headed there after breakfast and had it to ourselves for hours.

If we had more time, we would have gone jungle trekking too. Parallel to the Batang Penar River that flows below, there is an entrance to a track that leads to a waterfall.

Although it’s a relatively easy walk, the resort recommended that we take a guide as there are several forks in the track. It only takes about an hour to the fall, but you can get very lost in that time! Apparently, they’ve had to rescue guests on several occasions.

The Dusun have a few different houses, all sparsely spaced, as they believe in giving guests privacy.

I thought our stay at Lanai House was even more lush because it was the most secluded. No one needed to walk past as it was the farthest house in front and had its own path leading from the small car park.

After two nights of bliss, we could have easily stayed a week. The Dusun is the perfect place to recharge batteries after a crazy work schedule and leave feeling zen. As it was made so comfortable, it felt like a home in the woods.

Sustainable Tourism

The owners, expats Helen, David and their five children used to come to the region in the 80s for weekend chill-outs. Back then, there were no amenities, and they had to do everything themselves, like sourcing water, clearing land and building their traditional Malay-style house.

In 2009, after some time, they decided to open their retreat to guests and built five houses to accommodate them.

I loved how sustainable their practices were. They pride themselves on hiring staff from the local Kampung (village) and on sourcing products from small entrepreneurs and other responsible businesses.

Their resort respects nature and honours sustainable farming and building. They clearly take responsible tourism seriously, as evidenced by their eco-friendly body wash, the non-use of pesticides, and in-house composting, amongst much more.

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The forest has healing powers. In Japan, when people are sick, I’ve heard that the doctors tell their patients to walk in the forest. A stark contrast to Western medicine, who prefer prescribing pills instead. I actually came here feeling under the weather, but perked up as soon as I arrived. 

For jungle frothers like me, the Dusun is a place I continue to dream about. It’s an unpretentious nature hug and gets you back to basics.

If you’re scared of mosquitoes and require 5* bells and whistles, then this isn’t your place. Go and book an all-inclusive somewhere instead.

But if you crave calm and basking in nature, then The Dusun is your jungle book. ✤

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Bookings

As always, I booked our stay through Booking.com to make use of their Genius discount and free cancellation (just in case!). Or, book direct via their website.

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Getting Here

The Dusun is just a 1.5-hour drive south of Kuala Lumpur.

We don’t have our own car, but always rent one in Malaysia using GoCar. There are multiple GoCars dotted around KL, and we’ve found them more convenient and quicker to pick up/drop off than a regular car rental. They’re also better value.

If you’re a new GoCar user, you can register via their website and then book via the app. They have a newer fleet of Renault Capturs at RM 109 per day, as well as their older Nissan Almeras at RM 90 per day. All you need is an internet connection to get going, which unlocks the door and gives you a code for the key in the glove compartment (apart from the new Capturs, which work solely on an internet connection).

As GoCar (and most other rentals) only offer basic insurance coverage, we always purchase additional protection through RentalCover.com. Their policy insures you against everything that car rentals do not, including zero excess. For two days cover, we paid £19.60 GBP, which insured us up to £60’000, and additional drivers are free.

Note: For about 10 minutes, the road leading up to the Dusun is only wide enough for one car. If you’re going uphill and approach an oncoming car, let them back up to a safe spot so you can pass. We tried to help by reversing into a small grassy area, but we ended up taking off the front number plate. (Get insurance guys!)

Navigation

We always used Google Maps on our phones to navigate on the road, but the Waze app is much better! Particularly in Malaysia, it’s great at giving you live updates (Malaysians are fab at reporting hazards!), including traffic delays, and the app is easy to follow. Plus, the lady voice has an English accent that’s entertaining when she pronounces Malaysian places 😄

Don’t forget your Touch ‘n Go card!

You need this for toll roads in Malaysia, which are everywhere. The card costs RM10.60, and you’ll need to top it up. Most petrol stations sell them, or 7-Eleven convenience stores do. If topping up on the highway, be sure to have cash handy as they don’t accept cards.

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Tips For The Trip

1. Traffic from KL can be a nightmare on a Friday! Try to leave as early as you can to avoid the buildup on your way out of the city.
2. Our kitchen was fully equipped with a stove, fridge, and enough pots, plates and utensils for you to whip up almost anything yourself. They even have a large water dispenser, so you don’t have to bring your own. However, you may wish to take your creature comforts from home, like a chopping board, kitchen knife, salad bowl and wooden spoon. They have basics like oil, salt and pepper, so you don’t need to take your own.
3. The resort is self-catering, though they have a small on-site restaurant that serves breakfast and pre-booked lunch/dinner. The breakfast was nothing special, but the coffee and fruit were worth the journey up the stairs. However, you may wish to cook your own brekkie for something more substantial.
   
4. There are three big ceiling fans in the open living area, which blow away the mosquitoes, but don’t forget to bring repellent. You may also wish to bring your own coils.
5. They have heaps of candle holders but no tea lights. It would be nice for some added ambience in the evening, should you have some spare.
6. The altitude can make it a little chilly in the mornings and evenings, so pack some comfy trousers and a light jumper (note: I have, however, fully acclimatised to Malaysian weather!)
7. When I arrived, I asked if there was a key for our house. I was told no, so I didn’t even bother asking about the internet! They do have the internet, but I can’t vouch for how strong it was, as we used our 4G coverage the whole time.