Heading to Koh Phangan’s Thong Nai Pan beach, or deciding if this spot is for you? I recently came here for a week and wished I could have stayed longer! In this guide, I’m bringing you a lowdown on twin sisters, Noi and Yai beach, with my honest picks on where to stay, eat and find the best views.
When I last visited Koh Phangan in 2018 for a kitesurfing course, the lovely manager, Justin, said we should visit Thong Nai Pan beach on the northeastern coast. At the time, I was totally wiped from the hours of trying to ride and being flung around like a salmon by my kite! It sounded too far to scooter there from Thong Sala, but he said it’s one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and his personal favourite.
So when we came to Koh Phangan last Christmas, it was the first place I thought of. We landed at the pier, got picked up in a taxi, and made a beeline for Thong Nai Pan Yai.
We stayed here for a week, and it quickly became one of my favourites too. If you could bottle up a beach and turn it into medicine, this place would be it!
The area couldn’t be farther from the hustle and buckets of booze on other parts of the island. Perched in a secluded cove, the twin beaches of Yai and Noi are themselves as stunning as you could hope for, and they’re hugged by beautiful jungle-clad mountains. It’s easy to imagine you’re on your own little island.
We spent our days here doing as little as possible. Beach restoration with a book, sipping the tastiest fresh coconuts I’ve ever had, eating freshly caught red snapper cooked the Thai way, and a massage to finish the day, with little else. I don’t usually just beach bum on holiday, but I did on this trip! It was just too good. By the end of it, I could have quite happily stayed another week.
What to expect?
I’ve been visiting Koh Phangan for the past 12 years, and I last came 7 years ago. I used to love the West Coast, but I barely recognised a lot of it when we visited this time. It was so much more developed than before, which really took me by surprise, and being Christmas on top of it, it was the busiest time of year.
The East Coast however, is still the least developed area on the island, which is why I’m stoked I booked here first. While Thong Nai Pan continues to expand like everywhere else, it’s been at a much slower pace, and hopefully it will stay that way.
As one local quite accurately put it on our visit, on the west coast of Koh Phangan, you feel like a tourist, but here it’s more chilled-out. Thong Noi Pan is only half an hour away from the main strip, but it’s far enough out of the way to still retain the low-key vibe that I remember on the West Coast from before.
Thong Nai Pan means ‘Bay of the Golden Sand’, unlike my initial Google translation, which came out as Mr Pan’s Stomach. 😂 In the 90s, which many old-timers would describe as the golden years to visit Thailand, it was a hippie sanctuary with nowhere to stay overnight. A decade later, and a couple of basic lodgings opened on both beaches (two are still there), which you could bag for less than 500 baht a night ($23 AUD/£11).
Wind forward another decade, and the government started selling land to feed the backpacker circuit. More resorts opened, now with swimming pools and a higher price tag. At present, both beaches are lined with resorts, with a small village behind them that houses a number of restaurants.
The area is referred to as Thong Nai Pan, but it’s split into two beaches, giving you two for the price of one:
- Thong Nai Pan Noi – at the top ☝🏼, noi means little in Thai (I remember Noi for North).
- Thong Nai Pan Yai – at the bottom 👇🏼, yai means big.
They mainly attract holidaying couples and families who are here to unwind, with very few expats. I really liked that the crowd was more mature (showing my age now!), thank god, as the West Coast had far too many slightly annoying doobie-smoking foetuses. There are very few day trippers that bother to venture here, so it’s literally just you, the other resort guests, and the small local community.
Although it was Chrissy when we came, and all resorts were at capacity, the beaches had plenty of space for everyone to spread themselves out, and it didn’t feel crowded. If you’re here to relax and enjoy some awesome Thai hospitality, then it’s a fantastic place to base yourself for a holiday.
Which beach should I stay at?
Both beaches are truly stunning, and they’re only 5 minutes apart by scooter. To be honest, you can’t go wrong with either of them, but they have a slightly different vibe and offerings. We stayed on Yai (big, south), but ended up spending about the same time on both.
In true Thai fashion, the ocean here is perfectly warm year-round, and it’s generally calm and butter-flat for swimming, though I’ve read that it can get quite rough during the monsoon season (Sept to Nov). There were a couple of wavy days on our visit, but moreso on Yai; Noi was still relatively calm.
// Rundown of Thong Nai Pan Noi (small, north)
If it’s your first time visiting Thailand or you have kids, you’ll probably prefer staying on Noi. It has a decent variety of 4-5* resorts, including Anantara (the resort chain that features on White Lotus). As this beach is the more high-end sister, it can be a bit more showy and pretentious, but otherwise it’s really chilled and perfect for a beach day.
We preferred this beach as it was cleaner, and we usually perched up between Anantara and the north end where it was quieter, with a spot to grab a coconut in between at Phuwadee Resort.
Noi’s village also has many eateries and some bars (more than Yai), so you won’t be struggling for choice.
// Lowdown of Thong Nai Pan Yai (big, south)
Yai has more mid-range stays and better-value lodgings. I liked that it’s a bit more laid back and down-to-earth. We enjoyed dining on the beach for lunch and dinner, literally on the sand, and the village has some good food options too. At the end of the bay, there’s an absolutely stunning viewpoint with a restaurant at the top, which is worth the drive if you’re staying on Noi.
Even though we spent all our beach bumming days on Noi, we were happy to take a little drive, and it was nice to come back to the more humble vibes on Yai. This beach is longer and equally as beautiful, though we noticed more rubbish in the water and the ocean. Perhaps it was the tide wafting it into this bay, or that the resorts don’t clean it as much.
Best places to stay on Thong Nai Pan beach
From what I’ve seen and researched, I think these are the best stays currently available on Noi and Yai for all budgets. I managed to visit a couple of hotels I wasn’t staying at that I thought would be a great choice, and even sacrificed precious beach bumming time to wait for the rooms to be cleaned after people checked out! lol.
To give you a visual for planning, and for when you’re on the ground, I’ve plotted all the stays and restaurants I’m recommending on the map above.
There are plenty of places to eat around Thong Nai Pan, so don’t even bother paying for an all-inclusive room. Hotels in Thailand, no matter how many stars they have, rarely ever compare with local restaurants and street food vendors.
Where to stay on Noi
1. Buri Rasa
// Best beachfront 4-star resort
As you approach Thong Nai Pan Noi beach, the main access point is next to Buri Rasa, which trails past their reception and al-fresco bar. This hotel is really well managed, and the staff are very efficient and lovely. While we didn’t stay here, we did eat a tasty lunch, and I got to view a room. It was spacious, fresh, and well-styled, with all the little touches to make it a really comfy stay.
Buri’s facilities include a sea-view gym, a spa that looked very inviting (I almost booked a massage but never made it!), and a pool, though I don’t think it gets much sun. But with this delicious beach out front, you don’t really need a pool anyway.
As it was Christmas, they made an effort to feed the western holidaymakers with songs and decorations in the restaurant, and forced their staff to dress up in Christmas gear! Lol. If I’m nitpicking, my only qualms about this place were the slightly cheesy festive setup, which was a bit in-your-face, and that it gets busy as it’s popular.
- Buri isn’t cheap, but for a solid 4-star joint, you get what you pay for. Rooms start from 7,500 THB ($350 AUD/£175) per night in low season for 2 people, rising to about 9,700 THB ($450 AUD/£227) in the high. You can bag the best rates in May and June, and if you’re a Booking.com Genius member (like me), you’ll get a further 10% off. A Deluxe Room in May-June comes out at a reasonable 4,400 THB ($206 AUD/£105) per night- see more here, or visit their web.
2. Sandee Bungalow
// Best budget stay on Noi
When Thong Nai Pan beach got its first two guesthouses, Honey Bungalows was one of them. It’s now called Sandee, so it’s a Nai Pan OG, which still receives great reviews. This place offers a very basic, no-frills setup, so don’t expect anything close to the Buri!
The rooms are small at 18-20 m², and the shower hangs next to the toilet without proper separation, which will wet the whole bathroom floor, as per most traditional Thai bungalows. But if you’re happy to keep things simple, Sandee’s a clean and well-kept stay just steps from the beach, and people say the staff are lovely (they also rate the massages here). This seems like the best budget option if you’re set on staying in Noi.
- You can get a fan-cooled bungalow here for as little as 840 THB ($39 AUD/£20) per night (no AC), or spend a little extra for AC (I would in summer!), which is still very reasonable from 1,460 THB ($68 AUD/£35). They have a website, but their booking link takes you to Booking.com.
3. Anantara
// Best 5-star luxury stay
This place will probably always be out of my teacher budget! But if you’re coming here for something special, or have a bigger kitty, then I don’t think it gets much better than Anantara.
We usually hung out next to this resort when we came for a beach day, and their plot occupies a decent chunk. They have plenty of sunbeds for guests, which are very well-guarded! All day, a security guy wanders up and down, making sure random muggles don’t nab a lounger or enter via the beach entrance (not that we would!).
While we haven’t stayed here, things that people rave about are the hospitality, which I can only imagine is top-notch.. I used to work in a 5* hotel in Port Douglas, and if you named a hotel staff member in any review, they’d receive a perk. Hence, the genuinely warm service. 😉
People also say it’s an incredibly relaxing stay, with a beautiful well-maintained space, top-notch facilities, an extensive brekkie, and lots of little touches that make it memorable.
The only negative comments I read is that there’s no kids club, that Thong Nai Pan beach is far away from the island’s main strip (it’s only half hour, but that’s the perk!), the hotel’s taxi service is double the price compared to the rest of the island (I mean, if you’re staying here, you kind of expect that!), and that gym is small and gets crowded, so I guess they’re doing okay. There were some good abs on this beach.
Suites are very spacious and start at 80 m², featuring perks like an extra-large bed, espresso machine (rare on the island), and a private deck with a plunge pool.. the beachfront ones we saw didn’t get any sun, so are probably chilly in winter, but it’ll take the edge off nicely in summer.
- In the off-season (April to June), you can bag a Pool Suite here for about 10,750 THB ($500 AUD/£250) per night. Prices jump significantly to 21,500 THB ($1,100 AUD/£505) for Chrissy and the European summer hols from mid-July to August, with a 3-night minimum stay. September to mid-December also brings good value. See their reviews and book via Booking.com or check their website.
Best stays on Yai
1. The Great Escape
// Great value private chalets
I had this place listed on the blog for a while, so it was nice to finally stay here. It’s literally just behind the beach, which is a 2-minute walk away. Great Escapes has only 11 villas set along a pretty shaded garden, and there’s green foliage between each one for privacy.
The chalet was clean and a good size, with many little helpful extras to make it a comfy stay. The plunge pool was a nice extra and would be good in the summer, although it receives no sun during the day so it was too cold for me in winter! (I’m fully acclimatised to the steamy tropics).
We enjoyed sitting out on the deck at night with a glass of wine and having our own space to chill after each day. We were here for a week, and it was a very peaceful stay. The villa is showing its age and could do with a revamp to freshen the place up (particularly, some new towels to replace the current cheese graters!). But it was good value for the area, and the location is great.
- Rooms start from a reasonable 3,330 THB ($150 AUD/£505), and there’s a 2-night minimum stay. To book, head to Booking.com for Genius discounts; they don’t have a website to book direct. (Note, they didn’t inform us when we booked, but they don’t accept cards for payment. They asked for cash, but we managed to do a bank transfer.)
2. Nice Beach Resort
// Excellent value beachfront stay
This place might not win awards for their name, but don’t let that put you off! While the name is naff, the gaff is not! I like how down-to-earth and chilled this place is, the staff are friendly and efficient, and it’s right on the beach. If you’re after a lovely beachfront resort, then Nice is excellent value.
While we never stayed overnight, we came here for lunch and dinner multiple times, and the food is excellent. I did also get to see their Deluxe Studio, which was a good size (26m²), bright and comfy. As the resort only opened in 2022, everything is still fresh and well-kept, and they were adding a few more rooms when we came.
- You can get a standard double room with AC for as little as 3,340 THB ($115 AUD/£80) per night. The garden rooms looked nice (lol), but I’d personally go for the Deluxe King Studio, which was a little setback and more private. Click here to book through Booking.com (they don’t have their own website).
3. Baan View Talay Pool Villas
// Private pool and mountain views
This family-run stay looks like a great option for those who appreciate more space and privacy. It’s about halfway between Noi and Yai, although closer to Yai and just 500m from the beach. The lovely hosts can take you into town at no extra cost, or you could walk. However I’d recommend getting around with a scooter for convenience.
Baan Talay has only 6 villas. They’re spacious, at 85m², with an extra-large bed, and all come with a private pool. The views from the room and deck are stunning, with uninterrupted mountain vistas. It looks like a beautiful bubble within a bubble!
- There’s a 2-night minimum stay, and prices start just shy of 6,460 THB ($300 AUD/£150) per night in the low season, and creeps over 10,770 THB ($500 AUD/£250) in the high. These guys don’t have a website, so all bookings go through the major platforms. For an extra 10% Genius discount, head to Booking.com.
What’s on?
I planned to squeeze in a couple of hikes during our week’s stay, but the beach was just too good! In the end, beach bumming and having the odd massage were all I wanted to do each day, and I guess it’s the same for most. It was therapy.
There’s no too much around this side of the island, but one overcast day, we peeled ourselves out for the day and took the scooters for a spin through Namtok Than Sadet National Park. We bought a banana from the Lovely Singing Blind Man, and stopped to see Pho Darng Waterfall. The fall wasn’t amazing, but the area is peaceful, and it was nice to be back in the jungle. As it’s within the national park, there’s a 100 THB fee to get in p/p, which is pricey for what you get. But I guess it keeps the place clean and rubbish-free.
As a part of the ticket price you also get entry to Haad Sadet Beach, which we stayed at for about 5 minutes to use the loo! It has one beach resort that’s built in the rocks, and not much else. Just from first impressions, it had a bit of a weird vibe.
On the way back up, we stopped by Hide on High for a drink, which was a very unique experience to say the least! You’ll know what I mean if you go, a very quirky joint. 😉
Where to chow? 🐟
I love seafood, Thai food, and beachfront BBQ’s, so my belly was very happy here. This is predominantly the go-to, but there’s also a wood-fired pizzeria for when you fancy something different. Most resorts will have some sort of western menu, though usually, it’s never as good as the Thai options or the food you get back home. A word of advice? Head out of your resort and go to the village, as this will usually be where the better food is, and don’t be afraid to try the street food.
Food on Noi
Noi has many restaurants, and the standard is generally pretty high. We ate a delicious Thai dinner at Country E-ssan, which was a really authentic and casual eatery with an open kitchen. The food was delicious, the service was friendly, and the price was very reasonable (also loved that their baby was in a playpen in the restaurant for free entertainment.. only in Thailand!).
For brunch, we had a great-value 80 baht Pad Thai at Dawny Thaifood, a street-food vendor around the corner from Buri Rasa’s 55 Beach kitchen & Bar (pictured). Buri does make a good one too, at triple the price, but that’s what you pay for resort food on the beach.
I haven’t eaten at these, but I had them starred and they’re highly rated…That’s Amore for wood-fired pizza; Coco-Loco for coconut ice-cream with mango (bummed I missed a scoop here!). The Thai food at Krua Thai and Monsoon also looks tasty, authentic, and well-priced.
Food on Yai
We visited 2C Bar twice (pictured), and I loved this place! It’s up a steep hill at the southern end of the beach. Views of the bay and lush mountains from the top are magical, and probably the best you’ll find around.
Many people come during the day to take pictures and catch a sunset, but we really enjoyed eating here too. It’s a relatively steep climb up, so it’s best to scooter here. We climbed once, which I probably wouldn’t recommend in the summer! Both times, we enjoyed their whole red snapper, cooked Thai-style in a tamarind sauce. They fillet the fish, then fry it and add garlic and whole chillis (which you push aside if that’s not your thing, I love it), and it was absolutely delicious.
Nice Beach Restaurant does a banging Pad Krapow, which is our usual go-to brunch, and a pukka traditional Thai rice soup. They also have a great beach BBQ every night. We enjoyed grilled whole fish, which they lay out fresh on ice (go up to choose one and check the price before buying), which pairs perfectly with a som tum salad (paw paw salad) and rice. This is the life guys!
Banana Thai Cuisine is a really cute eatery in the village that does delicious homemade food. We loved their massaman curry, which is probably one of the best I’ve ever eaten.
Getting here and around
Pier transfers and Scooter hire
If you’re staying on Noi or Yai, most things should be within easy walking distance. They both have convenience stores (the better one is Tops Daily in Noi village). Grab and Uber don’t operate here, and there’s not really any Songteows either (hailable shared taxis). I’m sure most resorts can arrange transportation if you need to get somewhere, but if you want the freedom of experiencing both beaches whenever you fancy, I’d recommend hiring a scooter.
We had a really good experience with Aris’ bike and car rental, located on Noi. They delivered and picked up the bikes, the price was reasonable at 250 baht per day (which is pretty standard across the east coast), and they were lovely to deal with. The bikes were 150cc and in good nick.
The Sailor gave them 1 passport as a deposit for 2 bikes, or it’s 2,000 per bike. This is normal procedure here and covers their ass if farang decides to go ting tong, or has an accident.
We also arranged transfers from Thongsala Pier to Thong Nai Pan with Aris (800 baht), and to our next hotel on the west coast (900 baht to Haad Chao Phao beach). This is a typical price for a 30-40-minute ride across the island, though some higher-end hotels might charge more.
Getting to Koh Phangan
There are a couple of ways you can get here:
- By far, the easiest way to get to the island is to fly to Koh Samui from Bangkok or Singapore (1-2 hours), then take a high-speed ferry with Lomprayah to Thongsala Pier (30 minutes).
If you’re coming from outside of Thailand (like us), it’s actually cheaper to fly here from Singapore with Scoot Airlines. The only carrier that flies to Samui from Bangkok is Thai Airlines, and as they own the airport, they have the monopoly so charge a premium. - The “cheaper” option is to fly to Surat Thani (1 hour) with Air Asia, then get a bus to the pier (40 minutes + waiting time, sometimes hours), then take a high-speed ferry to Thongsala Pier with Lomprayah (30 minutes).
Option 2 might seem like you’re saving a lot of money, as Air Asia flights to Surat Thani are much cheaper than flights to Samui. However, if you’re coming from out of Thailand like us, you don’t really end up saving much in the long run, and it’s a much longer journey. Rather than getting from Ho Chi Minh City to Koh Phangan in a day, we needed to stay overnight in Bangkok, and it was two long-ass days.
I tried to convince the Sailor of this when booking our trip over, but he wasn’t having any of it. However he understood my point when we were waiting for the Ferry! We’re returning to Samui soon, and with all parties in agreement, taking the direct flight.
If you want a full lowdown on your options, click here for my full article on how to get to Koh Phangan from Bangkok.
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Where Next?
Thong Nai Pan was just the rejuvenation I needed after a crazy ass semester at school. I still wasn’t ready to leave after a week, and would have loved at least 10 days, but I think you could happily spend 2 weeks here.
If you did want to see what else is going on around the island during your stay, then I’d recommend splitting your time between the east and west coast like we did. You could, of course, just do day trips, but unless you have a scooter, the taxi transfers can add up. Check out my other article on where to stay in Koh Phangan.
Next, I’ll be writing about another awesome spot on KP that I hadn’t visited before. It’s absolutely stunning, you can snorkel off the beach there, and it has a really nice vibe (with a great massage spot at the end!). It’s mainly where the local expat crowd hang out, so it wasn’t touristy or busy like the other west coast beaches. We stayed here for New Year’s Day, and alongside Nai Pan, I’d love to stay here next time. Check back soon to read it!