When I was running The Glass House in Western Australia, we had the loveliest group from Moldova stay with us for New Year. They gifted us with a tasty bottle of Moldovan iced wine and said that in their culture, where you stay and what you are doing for New Year’s sets the tone for the entire year- which is what had drawn them to our relaxed ocean retreat in the first place.
Wind forward four years, and this secluded cove is where we found ourselves. If this is how my year is potentially going to pan out, then please, dear God, if you’re listening, sign me the hell up!
Haad Khom is tucked away in the north of Koh Phangan, wedged between the more local Chaloklum and the slightly better-known Bottle Beach. It was our last day on the island, and we were heading to one of the northwestern beaches, until we found that many were awash with greenish water from temporary algae blooms, along with many monged-out Gen Z-ers recovering from the night before, turning slightly lobster red. Not really feeling that vibe, the Sailor trailed his finger up the coast and paused at a speck that’s easy to miss. About 25 minutes from Sri Thanu, it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip.
Although I’ve visited Koh Phangan multiple times, I’d genuinely never heard of Haad Khom before- it’s quite off the radar and doesn’t get nearly as much attention as the island’s more popular spots. But being just enough out of the way works firmly in its favour, and I suspect the locals prefer to keep it that way.
Just like other major Thai islands I’ve visited since Covid, Sandbar Island has continued to see significant development in recent years. I honestly didn’t recognise much of the West Coast because of all the new dwellings and businesses, and there’s still a lot more under construction, with an uncomfortable number of greenfield sites bearing ‘FOR SALE’ boards. Being Christmas on top of it made it a lot busier than usual, which is why I loved coming here.
Haad Khom beach is one of the few places in Koh Phangan that has retained its authentic charm. It’s a really chilled-out spot where mostly the local crew hung out (or maybe tourists were just too hungover to drive up!), with only the long-time expats, hippie folks, and the odd chainsmoking pot-head with a perpetual smile on his face. There was no pretentiousness or loud beach bars playing music. Simply a couple of cool beach cafes, massage shacks and boho bungalows to stay a little longer. I met the owner of a gorgeous eco-retreat who has been running the place for 27 years! She was so lovely and still enthusiastic to chat with guests.
Snorkelling at Haad Khom Beach
What makes Haad Khom extra special- beyond its obvious good looks- is that you can snorkel directly from the shore. Not many beaches on Koh Phangan (or Samui) can say that, and it’s reason enough to make the trip north.
We were out on the reef for about 90 minutes, and I completely lost track of time. The marine life gave me all those warm fuzzy feels that I haven’t had since visiting Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. This isn’t as vast or diverse, but I spotted an enormous plate coral, brain and staghorn corals, schools of rainbow fish, parrotfish, large maori wrasse, and my very first pufferfish 🐡. There are also anemone softies scattered about if you know where to look.
Having got a little too carried away near the buoys, if it wasn’t for the Sailor calling me back, I wouldn’t have known the tide was drifting out. On the swim back to shore, I was grazing uncomfortably close to the coral, and if I weren’t an experienced snorkeller, I would have struggled getting back in!
A couple of things worth knowing before you go in:
- Snorkelling is only possible at high tide. The inner reef is too shallow at low tide, and walking on coral is highly damaging. Check the tide times before you head out.
- The outer reef near the buoys is the sweet spot. The inner coral has sadly suffered from climate change and foot traffic over the years, but venture further out and the coral quality improves noticeably.
- Long-tail snorkel trips also stop here from Chaloklum, so if you’d rather arrive by boat, that’s an option worth exploring. (For divers, Chaloklum Diving is a 5* Padi Centre and received great reviews).
New Year’s Day here was one of the highlights of our holiday and a nourishing place to kick back before returning to a polluted, chaotic Saigon. In between reading pages of my book, I was dreaming about where I’ll be in a few months’ time. Like my Moldovan guests, I’d like to believe their New Year tradition holds some weight.
A few months ago, I decided not to renew my contract at school, so the Sailor and I are still deciding where we’ll go next. I’d be lying if I said that somewhere in Thailand wasn’t a consideration. We’ve always wanted to come back to Siam since we lived in Pattaya a decade ago, preferably to one of the islands.
I’d also be lying if I said this wasn’t maybe, perhaps, just a 2-week recce trip disguised as a Chrissy holiday. 😉
The best time to visit Haad Khom is outside of the monsoon season between December and April, when it’s not too hot and the water is perfectly calm for snorkelling.
As well as Thong Nai Pan on Koh Phangan’s secluded east coast, I think this is another wonderful place to base yourself on the island if you’re seeking relaxation and fewer muggles. I wish I’d booked the second half of my holiday here, or at least a few days. Needless to say, I really didn’t want to leave! ✤
Where to stay on Haad Khom beach?
If you’re coming to Haad Khom, I’d definitely recommend booking one of the two gorgeous-looking stays that are right on the beach. They both look like great options and are sustainability-conscious.
1. Ocean Experience
The owner of Ocean Experience, Bovy, has been running the place for over 27 years. She’s created a wonderful eco-conscious retreat on the west side of the beach. The rooms are respectful to nature and blend in seamlessly.
I inquired about one to take a look, but Bovy was full at the time. From the pictures, the natural bungalows look like simple luxury with a lovely boho design. They have an on-site shala too and periodically host yoga classes and retreats.
We enjoyed some smoothies and iced coffees at their dry cafe, Ocean View Restaurant, perched up just in front of the beach. It also serves tasty, nutritious food using locally sourced produce.
// Head to their website for more info, direct bookings only. Prices range from 1’500 thb per night ($65 AUD/£35) to 6’000 ($265 AUD/£140). Send Bovy a WhatsApp message (number on their page) for more details, or send an inquiry via the contact form.
2. Coconut Beach Bungalows
The other great-looking stay here is called Coconut Beach Bungalows. As another eco-conscious space, it is 100% solar-powered (which is probably a good idea given its location), and all water is generated on-site. They have a restaurant in front which uses food from their organic farm.
On the sand just in front of their resort, they have a cute, boho-chic massage cafe, the first of its kind I’ve been to. The massage was delightful. They also have a private pool on site for guests, as well as a mini gym if you need to move your chops a bit.
// Rooms start at 6’000 thb per night ($270 AUD/£140). Direct bookings only through their website, or via Airbnb.
Haad Khom Map
For all you visual planners, here’s a map of the beach with all the recommendations pinned for ease of access. You can also open it up on Google Maps and use it on the road, just hit the top right button.
Have you made it here? I’d love to hear what you think- drop a comment below or feel free to shout any questions. I’m happy to help fellow salt seekers 🐠
How to get to Haad Khom beach?
Getting here is a 25-minute drive from Sri Thanu. Check out the map above to find out where to park, or just navigate to the beach and stop where you see other scooters parked. From there, there’s a clear forest path (pictured) leading down to the beach, which takes about 2 mins.
You can also get a taxi boat here from Chaloklum Beach, which costs about 150 thb p/p each way.
Due to the accessibility of this beach, it may not be suitable to those who are less mobile.
How to get to Koh Phangan?
What to do nearby?
The top end of the island is generally for quiet island life, but if you need to stretch your legs, there’s a couple of hiking trails from Haad Khom:
- The easier trail to Mae Haad Beach.
- The harder hike to Bottle Beach viewpoint, or take a slightly shorter loop hike there.
You may also fancy driving to Chaloklum Beach for a walk around, where there are plenty of restaurants and beach cafes (we really enjoyed brunch at Kaif).
Between late November and January, you can also catch the NE / ENE wind for some kiteboarding action on Malibu Beach- check out the legend Justin at Siam Pro Kite for lessons and more info.