I don’t think you can say you’ve eaten a proper banh mi until you’ve devoured one in Ho Chi Minh City.

Just as pho originated in Hanoi, banh mi was born along the Saigon River and has been evolving here for a long time. 

Unlike what you may find in other parts of the globe, there are so many variations of this handsome Vietnamese roll in this frenetic city. From more traditional cold-cut meats to delicious marinated mackerel, succulent grilled pork patties, and even a doner kebab banh mi- the Saigonese are constantly evolving the fillings. Which is why it’s impossible to say you’ve found the “best” one. It doesn’t exist, only iterations of deliciousness.

When the Sailor said he could happily smash a banh mi for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the idea of a banh mi crawl came to mind. While I’ve lived in Saigon for the past two years, I have to admit I haven’t eaten as much as I would have liked. This is mainly because of where I lived- my expat burb of Thao Dien has a few decent joints, but the best banh mi is across the river in District 1 and other less expatty areas. So in the fortnight before I left, I made up for lost time, and ate a lot of banh mi. So much so that the roof of my mouth was sore from biting into all those crispy rolls, and I think I did put on a few extra pounds!

Jump straight to the crawl.

Banh mi literally translates to ‘bread’ or ‘wheat cake’ and refers to most bread-like products made from this carby crop (even tortillas), so don’t be confused when you see it offered with certain dishes here. But it used to be called ‘banh tay’, meaning ‘foreigners’ bread’.

The French introduced baguettes to Vietnam after they invaded in 1858, alongside other exotic goodies like coffee, cheese and beer. But banh tay was expensive for locals because wheat didn’t grow in Vietnam and had to be imported, so it was consumed only by the wheat-addicted Frenchies. Typically, they ate it the European way, on a plate as a snack with cold cuts, ham, pâté, and butter.

It wasn’t until there was an oversupply of imported goods during the First World War that the locals could afford to buy banh tay. Then, as many Saigonese developed a taste for bread and anti-colonial sentiment grew during the Second World War, the name was changed to banh mi. The stinking hot streets also saw locally made mayonnaise replace butter.

In Saigon, banh mi is eaten at any time of day, more typically for breakfast and lunch (as my Kiwi teacher colleague would do, regularly smashing two bad boys in one sitting), but also for dinner.

Unlike what I was used to in Oz, there are many joints here that only open for the early morning or evening trade- some stands have a short 2-3-hour window before they sell out, so check the times before heading out, and in some cases, get in early to avoid disappointment. 

Banh mi in Vietnam is typically eaten on the go, so you’re likely to find that the best ones have minimal seating for you to devour and bounce, or none at all. 

The idea of ‘eating on the go’ is also how the modern banh mi that we know and love developed, and is now craved from Saigon to Sydney and San Jose. And I take much of the next part from the history of banh mi, as reported in this fascinating Roads & Kingdoms’ article.

Banh Mi 2.0

When Vietnam was divided into two in 1954, with Ho Chi Minh’s communists taking hold of the north, and a US-backed south, around 1 million Vietnamese fled to Saigon and regional areas nearby. Whilst many businesses and street vendors in the north closed due to the new regime’s restrictions on private enterprise, and French businesses were seized, the scene in Saigon was completely different. This is where the banh mi 2.0 came into existence.

Among those who fled the communist regime was the Le family. They came to Saigon from Hoà Mã, which was once a village on the outskirts of Hanoi, where they worked for a company that supplied European-style hams and meats to French restaurants. They wanted to make the banh mi more affordable to the locals, and so they began producing their own meats, reduced the size of the bread to 20 centimetres, and added less meat and more vegetables to their servings, which also suited the tropical climate in Saigon.

This earned the Le’s family’s shop a healthy following of hungry customers, who were busy office workers, students and labourers that didn’t have time to sit down and leisurely eat. So Mr Le started packing the cold-cut meats inside the bread instead of on the side, and collectively, other vendors in Saigon did the same, and modern banh mi was born. You can still find them operating at Bánh Mì Hòa Mã [map]in District 3, serving both the new and old-school platter-style banh mi.

4 Awesome Banh Mi Spots in Ho Chi Minh City

Most of these joints have been around for decades, or are multi-generational establishments. It’s hard to compete with that level of saucery from those hands that have been preparing bani mi day in, day out, with secret family recipes handed down.

If you’re a Westerner reading this and not used to buying from street food carts in Southeast Asia, you may be tempted to go to a more modern-looking shop to buy your banh mi with air con. While there are some decent chains popping up, if you want the most delicious and authentic banh mi, then you need to embrace the more humble cart or shop.

I consumed many Vietnamese sarnies for this article, and I also did the crawl myself. Admittedly though, after the second one, the Sailor and I shared the others, which you may want to do too if you’re not huge eaters. 

While I’m putting this crawl out there for you to consider- and it’s a great timesaver if you are in a hurry, if you have more time, or you’re not staying near one of them- Google what’s nearby you or go for a walk. As long-time local Tom from Vietnam Coracle would say about pho and banh mi, “the best one is your local one”. There are endless gems out there that don’t have the recognition online, because blogs like mine haven’t found them yet, or they’re not on G-maps, or they’re hidden where only the locals know about them. 

Also, isn’t it more fun to find your own?

Map of the Banh Mi Crawl

Most places on this list are conveniently located in the centre of Ho Chi Minh City (District 1) or within easy access of it. If you’re keen for a bit of exploring, I’ve also added a bit of sightseeing along the route. Saigon is loud, busy and chaotic, and not the most enjoyable city to walk around, so I’ve tried to keep it a bit more chilled.  

Tip: Most of these vendors are cash only (prices are usually in the 30-40k VND range ($1.60-$2.20 AUD / 85p-£1.13). For the complete Saigon experience, I’d recommend getting to each stop via a Grab bike. Of course, you can also order a car (I usually did, don’t judge), but it is way more fun on a 2-wheeler, and quicker too.

Stop 1: Bánh mì Dân Sinh

Ward: Thạnh Mỹ Tây [map] // Best for: Pukka slow-braised fish

This is the first fish banh mi I’ve ever eaten, and it was absolutely delicious. I actually thought it was mackerel from the reviews, but it’s actually scad fish, and also referred to as ‘horse mackerel’ or just ‘mackerel’. Nevertheless, for comparison, they’re both similar in texture, size and high in Omega-3. 

This style of banh mi is more typical in coastal areas of Central Vietnam, like Da Nang. The fish is slow-braised for hours in a rich, savoury, and slightly sweet tomato-and-chilli broth. This makes it super tender, with soft, edible bones, and the flavour is subtle and not pungent or overpowering at all. 

The marinade was delightful. The sauce almost tasted slightly fruity to me, which lifted the whole thing and added a different layer, followed by a welcome hum of chilli. Also inside the banh mi were mildly pickled onions, and the bun was crunchy. It came with a refreshing iced tea on the side for 27k.

The location for this one isn’t exactly relaxing (even though the napping taxi drivers nearby may suggest otherwise!).. it’s just across the road from Pearl Plaza, next to a busy main road. However, it does have many tables outside for you to sit in under the bougainvillea. To try something different, if you’re nearby, I think it warrants a stop.

Note: Open 6:30 am to 7 pm every day- check their FB page for more deets.

What to do nearby

If you haven’t been before, you may want to catch a bike to visit the War Remnants Museum [map / web]. There aren’t many tourist things I’ve done in the city, for a lack of offerings, but this is one I’d recommend. It offers a very sobering insight into the US War on Vietnam, and I found it very moving. While heavily curated by the communist government, it does offer a refreshing perspective to an otherwise Hollywood lens. For younger visitors, some pictures inside are very graphic. (Entry: 40k for adults, 20k for kids (bring cash) / Open: 7:30 am to 5:30 pm.)

Stop 2: Bánh Mì Bảy Hổ

Ward: Tân Định, D1 [map] // Best for: Banging beef

This banh mi vendor is incredibly 3 generations old, first starting out in the 1930’s when baguettes were served on a platter with cold cuts, instead of as a sarnie.

It featured in the Netflix series Street Food Asia, so I thought it may be busy with tourists. But surprisingly, when I rocked up, it was pumping with locals grabbing lunch by foot or stopping on their bikes. This is probably a reflection of their quality and price- despite being based in District 1 and appearing on Netflix, their prices are still very low and affordable to everyone. Most sarnies here cost 25k VND ($1.35 AUD / 70p).

Note, there are two banh mi bay ho joints on this road, and they’re just across the road from each other. This one is on the corner, it’s busier and has the Netflix sign outside.

I think this is my favourite banh mi in Ho Chi Minh City. They serve beef (bò), pork (heo), chicken (gà), and a few others. We went for one beef and one pork and grabbed a seat next door at the small tables in front (I think they own three shopfronts). 

Both banh mis were delicious. The bread was beautifully crispy and well packed, with a great balance of rich pate, meat, and veggies. The Sailor’s pork was succulent, and he yammed it pretty quick. Although we both preferred my beef one, which had a delicious umami sauce inside.

Note: Open 5 am to 7 pm daily. If you’re getting the beef, I’d recommend eating it straight away so the bread doesn’t get soggy. The guy who served us spoke great English (they also have iced tea). 

What to do nearby

After this banh mi, I had one of the most pleasant walks I’ve had in District 1. Mainly because I avoided the chaotic main road and tucked down the narrow side streets, which is more chilled and interesting. It’s also cooler thanks to the buildings being built in close proximity.

Here’s a little walk you may want to try [map]. There are a few coffee shops along the way you can duck into to cool off and enjoy a Vietnamese coffee or a refreshing fruit soda and people-watch.

Stop 3: Bánh Mì Hồng Hoa

Ward: Bến Thành, D1 [map] // Best for: Traditional Saigon banh mi

Mark’s post from Migrationology introduced me to this place, and it didn’t disappoint. It’s just around the corner from the other, even more well-known joint, Bánh Mì Huynh Hoa. However, taking Mark’s verdict, while delicious, it’s heavy-handed with the meat and less balanced with veggies. On the days we went past, there was also a long queue of tourists outside each time, which I can’t justify when there’s this ripper around the corner. 

Banh Mi Hong Hoa has been operating as a family-run shop for over 35 years, since 1989. As well as selling banh mi, they also operate as a bakery. They make all their own fresh bread on-site throughout the day, and supply it to local businesses across District 1, carting out big baskets of hot bread on motorbikes.

There are a few spots to sit here, and it was popular with foreigners on our visit, which may reflect its price, as it’s double the dong compared to the last one (almost 50k… but still only $3 AUD). It’s also a place that’s been well documented in the food-travelsphere. 

We went for their specialty, the traditional Saigon banh mi (it’s the first one listed on their English menu- ‘Bread with extra mixed meats’), and tucked into an alley to eat it for the lack of seats (coincidentally, the same alley as Stop 4). 

The Sailor and I firstly noted that the pate in this one was awesome- rich and tasty, and more generous. I also really liked their traditional cold cuts of ham and chả lụa (an iconic local white pork sausage seasoned with garlic and pepper). It didn’t come with fatty bits or chewy rinds, unlike others I’ve had. 

Also inside is homemade mayo, pickles, fresh cucumber, coriander and chilli. It was well balanced with veggies, and we smashed it pretty quick- yum!

Note: Open 5 am to 9 pm daily.

What to do nearby

I wasn’t sure if I had space for another banh mi after the last three, but I’m sure glad I didn’t miss stop number 4. It’s just around the corner from this one, but I needed a break to digest my growing banh mi baby and get out of the muggy heat, so I took a taxi to the Cafe Apartment [map] to kill a bit of time. If you haven’t been, it’s a cool 9-storey building with multiple cafe vendors and shops.

Stop 4: Bánh Mì Thịt Nướng Ngon Saigon

Ward: Bến Thành, D1 [map] // Best for: Grilled porky goodness

Bánh Mì Thịt Nướn has been operating since 1998, and the vendor, Mrs Gái, began selling here at 29.  

We arrived around 6:30 pm, and the smell of juicy, charcoal-grilled pork patties was wafting down the street. There was a line in front of the stand, which is always a good sign (though I think there’s always a line here).

I love anything pork, and anything patty, and anything grilled, so this was probably my second favourite banh mi in Saigon. The bread roll was crunchy yet soft, the generous pork serving was succulent and caramelised, and it was drizzled with a dark secret sauce similar to a smoky Vietnamese teriyaki. Then cucumber is loaded in to freshen it up, topped with coriander and chilli.

This was an absolute knockout banh mi that you’ll surely smash quickly, or come back for seconds for, possibly after a few drinks. Lol.

There’s no seating for this one, but if you continue down the alley it’s on, there’s a tiny shop/cafe with a couple of seats out front. We ordered a beer and ate it out front. Happy days.

Note: Mrs Gái opens up at 4 pm and closes at 9 pm; however, I wouldn’t be surprised if it sells out before then. Price: 33 VND ($1.81 AUD).

What to do nearby

After all that action, I think it’s time for a relaxing post-banh mi bevvy. If you want to head to a chilled bar in District 1, check out Lost – Drink & Chill [map], which has a great selection of cocktails. Otherwise, if you’re staying in Thao Dien, grab a bar seat and margarita at Kanpai [map] and wind-down listening to their vinyl tunes.

* * *

And that’s a wrap folks.

If you enjoyed any of the banh mi’s in this list, share the happy belly with your buds or comment in this post- it’s nice to hear from real humans on the other side!

And if you found your own joint that you want to rave about, spill the secret to share the love among the awesome street food veterans that slave for our enjoyment. 

Big love, and banh mi bellies.

Shezza x