When I shared a drone shot from my trip here with my Grade 2s and asked them to guess where I had gone, a few shouted confidently, “The Maldives!” It must be spots like this which give Phu Quoc the title of ‘The Maldives of Vietnam’. It was even voted as the 2nd best island to visit in the world last year by Travel & Leisure readers, beaten only by (you guessed it) the Maldives. Although it comes without the complicated journey or the price tag, and you still get to enjoy a taste of local life.
To be honest, before recently coming here for the first time, this southern island wasn’t exactly at the tippy top of my list of places to visit. I’d heard mixed reviews about Phu Quoc from convos with mates and comments online, and had the impression it was overdeveloped with a trash pollution problem. This rhetoric is a growing feature of islands in Southeast Asia, sadly.
However, I’m glad we didn’t wait too long to come here, as it completely took me by surprise.
Like anywhere, I think your experience really depends on where you stay, and whether you’ve seen the island before a few greedy developers came bulldozing in, circa 2015.
The majority of visitors end up staying in the centre around Dương Đông, or the new imposing Vinpearl Wonderland, which resembles a European Disneyland knockoff and couldn’t feel more out of place if it tried. One Reddit contributor described it as “Tackier than anything I saw in Vegas”. Another said it’s aiming too heavily towards “Russian and Chinese tourists”, and looks like “Donald Trump’s toilet”. You get the picture.
Thankfully, as Vietnam’s largest island, Phu Quoc is huge, and there are still many authentic and dreamy areas to base yourself.
Taking a tip from a local, I made sure to book away from the main strip and the Vingroup circus and headed up to the northwest tip of the island.
Phu Quoc’s newest beach villa
After years of absolute *joy* living in Far North Queensland, Australia, it’s similar settings like this, nuzzled between the rainforest and the reef, that are my true happy place.
Our stay was in the local neighbourhood of northern Gành Dầuat, which is closer to Cambodia by sea and almost felt like its own little island. Aside from a couple of laid-back spots to wine and dine, and a few other small-scale resorts, most of the time it felt like there was a Berlin Wall between us and tourism on the island. The setting couldn’t have been more idyllic.
The villa is owned by the loveliest Hanoians, and I could still smell the fresh paint when they showed me around. It literally only opened two months before we came, so the algorithms hadn’t quite caught up yet, and it took me ages to seek out online.
Tracy and Polly told me that they fell in love with this spot when they got stuck here during Covid, which is when the seeds were sown to build Casa D’Elysea. Most school holidays, they come here with their young son, but still live in Hanoi and manage the stay remotely. It looks like a luxury hotel but has all the warmth of an Airbnb. I don’t know about you, but family-run stays like this are for the win for me these days. They have more soul, are less crowded, and are as laid back as your mate’s house, except you don’t need to do the dishes.
Our sea-view room was super spacey, and the ocean was just steps away from my bed. I barely wore thongs (flip-flops) for the next few days and completely melted into this setting. It was just what the doctor ordered.
This past year in Saigon has been (yet) another crazy one for us, and I’ve really felt the accumulation of back-to-back years of stress take its toll. It’s funny, but you imagine getting older as slowing down, but it feels like we keep on speeding up every year!
To be honest, I’m not sure how much longer I can manage living in one of Southeast Asia’s most chaotic megacities, void of nature and hiking trails (actually, I am sure how long), but I’m fortunate that spots like this exist to take the edge off. And luckily, for peasant teachers like me, it’s really affordable too. Recently, I spent more on a return train ticket from my Mum’s house in Worthing to London than on 1 night here, would you believe.
While the mainland isn’t short on beaches, there aren’t any decent ones that I’ve been to near Saigon. And they’re not always exactly peaceful, as my recent trip to Vũng Tàu during a national holiday confirmed, where I was woken up by 1. Loud ships bellowing at 5 am. 2. A never-ending stream of honking cars. 3. The relentless construction next door. 4. Roosters!! 5. Feral dogs. 6. Feral kids let loose in the hallway. As well as kaoaroke, which kept me awake at night. It was noisier than my condo in the city!
So far, this has been my favourite beach spot in Vietnam. It was stunning and relaxing. A few days here was like therapy.
The only access points to Chuồng Víc Beach are via Casa D’Elysea and a couple of small-scale resorts, so it was extremely quiet and at times, felt like our own private escape. I haven’t swum in holy water like this since holidaying in Koh Lipe over six years ago. It was warm as a bath, glassy and no taller than our thighs by the shore.
Its remoteness meant that it was pretty clean too, although I still picked up pieces here and there. Even when we lived in Oz, on one of the world’s most remote coastlines, we’d still collect enough rubbish to fill a couple of bin bags every few months, especially after a storm. Most of it was actually crap from fishing vessels, which we found here too. There was a fishing barge perched a hundred metres in front, which I suspect was responsible for some of it.
Despite Phu Quoc’s development in recent years, which many locals are rightfully unhappy about, much of the island’s green interior remains largely intact. It’s carpeted with about 56% national park, making it a jungle haven, and conveniently, there was a jungle trek just half an hour away from us.
We rented scooters from Tracy to get there, as the northwest tip of Phu Quoc has fewer Grab taxis. It was my first time driving in Vietnam because in Saigon it’s completely madhouse! On the whole, the roads here are delightfully wider and quieter, and were a joy to ride on. The trailhead was down a bumpy dirt road, but nothing too hectic and heaps of fun. I’d take on a dirt trail any day over Ho Chi streets!
Most evenings, we headed out for dinner and a sunset in Gành Dầu, which had a charming little centre and a small-town vibe. Each time we passed the village, the markets were abuzz with scooters and people grabbing food for dinner or buying fresh staples like seafood, which were neatly laid out on ice.
There was no pretentiousness like I see in Saigon, and everyone was chilled and down-to-earth. Families ate on plastic tables by the street, laughing and actually talking to each other instead of living on their phones, and regularly indulged in the infamous pastime of karaoke (Welcome to Vietnam!).
Every now and again, a couple of kids on bicycles would enthusiastically shout “hello” to us as we drove past, but otherwise, people were relatively nonchalant about us being here. Mostly, we were treated like one of the locals, which I appreciated.
Although sometimes, perhaps wrongly, I couldn’t help but wonder if people were a little uneasy by our presence. Separated by a frightfully narrow strip of rainforest, just south of here is the Vinpearl estate, and I suspect some locals are worried that it’s only a matter of time before more of the island’s interior gets swallowed by those hungry big Vincats in Saigon.
* * *
This place is such a different world from Ho Chi Minh. If I could pack up my city life and move somewhere else in Vietnam for the rest of my time here, it would happily, and willingly, be this place. I really didn’t want to leave!
We extended our trip by one more day, which was all the time we could give, sadly. On the last night, it was just us and another couple, and it felt like our own private villa on this gorgeous beach.
Selfishly, I’ve been a tad delayed in publishing this article for the lack of time, and because I wanted this place to remain our secret beach house for a little longer! But it deserves to be raved about, and you should know about it.
If you ever come to visit, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.x
Extra Deets // Casa D’Elysea
Tracy and Polly had no idea I’d be writing a post. I’m pretty low-key, so I never tell people about the blog on my travels.
Casa D’Elysea is a mix between a small boutique hotel and an Airbnb, and it’s run like one too as communication with Tracy is done through WhatsApp. She’s very quick to respond. When Polly and Tracy are staying, the place really feels like a family-run stay, and they’re both super lovely. They’re there when you need them, but they give you your own space, which is appreciated.
They only have a few bookable rooms, and all of them come with a sea view. Our pad was on the ground floor, which was generously spacious at 45 m², featuring modern Mediterranean finishes and a minimalist design.
The four suites on the fourth floor are even larger, with a private balcony featuring an al fresco spa bath. Polly was sweet to offer us a tour of them as they hadn’t yet opened, and they’re lush. They’d be great for a romantic getaway or those who prefer a bit more privacy.
As the villa only opened two months before our visit, they’re still learning things as they go and making improvements. Perhaps in a few months, when they start filling out, they (or the guests) may want a manager who can be there full-time, to make the operation smoother. But, Rome wasn’t built in a day, as I learnt with The Glass House.
Don't forget to pack...
Getting here & About
Fortunately for fellow Saigoners, this is one of the sweetest flights you can experience from Ho Chi Minh City. The island is only an hour’s flight away, so you’re taking off and landing for longer than you’re in autopilot. There’s barely time for a drink.
Flights ✈️
Every teacher who’s been here for a few years recommended that I avoid travelling with VietJet Airlines if I can help it, and to go with Vietnam Airlines instead. Apparently they’re notorious for delays.
As I booked at the last minute, I flew outbound with VietJet, which had many available flights. The plane was only delayed by about 1 hour, but I can concur they’re a bit shit. They reminded me a lot of Ryanair in Europe- annoyingly inexperienced staff who I wouldn’t trust with a bargepole if something happened on board. They also had small pokey seats, everything is an add-on (like luggage, etc), and the passengers could be a bit feral too.
We came back with Vietnam Airlines. Ironically, they were more delayed (2 hours), but the whole experience was heaps better, and I’ll try to go with them if I can help it. Their economy seats also include checked luggage as a standard (no Ryanair business model here), so the price ends up being about the same anyway.
Cab 🚖
We ordered a Grab from the Airport to Casa D’Elysea via the app, which was very quick and easy. It took about an hour to get to the resort, and cost about 440’000 VND (approx. $26 AUD), which I think is pretty standard.
Getting short-distance Grabs around Casa D’Elysea was quite tricky though, so renting a scooter is handy if you want to venture out a bit.
The night before, I pre-booked a return Grab to the Airport without issues, although Polly can also organise one for you.
Good to know
Where to chow 🍜
Casa D’Elysea: Due to guest demand, a couple of weeks before we arrived, Polly and Tracy hired a wonderful home cook. The menu is simple, like Pho (the Sailor was addicted to the beef), noodles and seafood, etc, and everything is brought fresh each morning from the market. The food isn’t fancy, thankfully, but it’s uber fresh, delicious, and cooked with love. If you know you’re staying for dinner, just let the chef know what you’d like so she can prepare everything ahead and get extra bits from the market. The food here is also very reasonably priced, unlike most hotels (check the map below for the menu).
Drinkwise, they sell a range of soft bevvies, fresh daily coconuts from the casa (divine) and beer only.
They have also kitted out a guest kitchen just in front of the chef’s kitchen, where you can cook your own food, or prepare brekkie if you wish. It’s really well-equipped and has a big fridge if you need to store your bits. The owners are trying to avoid people eating in the room, understandably, to avoid pests. The downstairs rooms only have tiny bar fridges, FYI.
Five Minutes Away: If you have a scooter or manage to get a taxi, then you have to visit 40 Six Beach Haus. If Vietnam and Greece had a love child, it’d be this place aesthetically! Perched on a hilly cove, the vibes here are awesome, the drinks are divine, and the Asian fusion food is banging. It’s also a great ocean sunset spot as it’s on the northwest coast. We came here a few times because we loved it so much.
There are a few other spots around for drinks and dinner. We ate at Mun’s Kitchen a couple of times, too, which I’d recommend. The food is tasty, it’s nice and chilled, and you’re right next to the beach.
In Phu Quoc Town Centre (Dương Đông): I bookmarked Bánh Xèo Cuội 3 Restaurant when passing by from the airport, and we loved the crispy pancake.
A Phu Quoc specialty dish is also Bún Kèn, a type of noodle soup that has a flavour-packed broth with coconut milk, curry, minced fish and five-spice, and is described as crunchy, fishy and fruity. We didn’t get to try it sadly, but I heard that Bún Kèn Út Lượm is the best place to get it.
Into The Wild Hike
This is an awesome little hike to do in Phu Quoc and by far, the most enjoyable walk I’ve done in Vietnam so far. They don’t happen often enough these days, sadly, but this one is so peaceful and pleasantly flat compared to some steep AF mountains that seem to have been blazed to inflict torture, instead of joy (like Tây Ninh’s Black Virgin Mountain.. still a painful memory!).
I can’t say exactly how long the trail is, but it took us about an hour return, plus stopping time to take photos. It was created as a conservation trail so there’s lots of wildlife signage throughout, and it’s filled with heaps of cool structures, sculptures and bridges made of bamboo and wire. You can see all the love that went into creating it.
Unfortunately, it seems neglected these days and isn’t maintained, so many of the bridges are falling apart. But don’t let that put you off because it makes for a more interesting walk and gives it a Blair Witch vibe; you just need to be careful walking over the bridges. There is one towards the end that’s completely fallen down, which you need to walk around. However, if it’s the wet season or there’s been a lot of rain, you may not be able to cross.
Getting to the trailhead
Ten minutes away from Casa D’Elysea is a long dirt road called Suối Cái. It travels east to the highway and connects to more remote spots, like Starfish Beach (which lives up to its name), and this hike. The road was fairly busy with Jeeps trailing groups of tourists to these remote strips for an excursion. You need to go carefully in places, but it’s not as hairy and rocky as the dirt roads I’ve taken in Phuket.
The trailhead is about 20 minutes down Suối Cái. The start and the path don’t show up on Google Maps, unfortunately. But check the map below for a marker, or here’s the coordinates: 10°21’18.6″N 103°52’40.6″E
The trailhead is located on the left, marked by a ‘Restricted Area’ sign attached to a tree in front (see pic below). This is because the structures inside are no longer maintained, but you can still hike here. On the opposite side of the trail to your right, there’s a big green sign in Vietnamese, plus another trail with a Restricted Access sign.
Note: I’ve seen pictures of this trail from a few years ago, and there’s an ‘Into The Wild’ sign welcoming you at the start, which has since been taken down, hence the name.
There are signs at the entrance welcoming you to the National Park. Then it’s a well-marked path that’s easy to follow, which steers north-east towards the beach. The whole trail is shaded by the canopy, so it’s humid but pleasantly a few degrees cooler than the beach.
After about half an hour of leisurely walking through the forest and crossing a series of bridges, the return point is when you get to a bamboo platform (pic below). Beyond this is ‘Indochinese Silver Langur Bridge’, which leads down to the beach and takes another 15 minutes. We were initially intending to go all the way, but the bridge has completely fallen and the trail down looks steep. I think it looks worse than it is from the top, and energetic hikers may want to have a go, but I was done by that point! Casa D’s gorgeous spot was beckoning me back.
Phu Quoc Map
To make things easier, I’ve added all the recommendations in this post to the map below 👇 so you can use it on the road. Hit the top right icon (that looks like a square), and it’ll open up on your phone in Google Maps.
As always guys, don’t be shy, flip a comment below if you have any Qs or just fancy sharing some love.x