George Town is not Phuket Old Town. I strangely thought they would be similar before I ventured to Penang! (I also thought that the island is where the Penang curry originated…huge misconceptions!). They’re both historical centres lined with eclectic houses influenced from Europe and the Straits, but they couldn’t be farther apart.
George Town has its own unique charm and is a popular starting point for tourists on the island. Most people come here to explore its lantern lit lanes, take pictures alongside its impressive street art, awe over the architecture or eat the huge array of local food. It’s known to be the food and culture capital of Malaysia, so there’s lots to see, do and eat.
This article will take you on a guided tour through its 3 distinct quarters and show you why it captivates travellers from around the world.
Walkabout
The best way to experience George Town is on foot. It’s relatively big (121 km², roughly the same size as Vancouver), but it’s a city made for walking and nowhere is too far to reach.
When you meander through its arty streets, one thing that becomes totally mesmerising is the culture.
For those unfamiliar with Malaysia, unlike any other South East Asian country, here you have 3 ethnic groups that combine to form ‘1 Malaysia’. The largest being the Malay muslim community, and the two larger minorities being the Indian Malays and Chinese Malays.
Unlike KL, which is huge (but modest in comparison to Bangkok), in just half an hour of wandering around George Town, you are greeted by multi-faith Malaysia.
If you turn one corner, you can hear the enchanting Islamic call to prayer, turn another, and you’re stunned by a beautiful Chinese Temple, and then passing by, you may see a lively Hari Krishma procession.
Like Melaka, located on the south-west coast of Malaysia, George Town is further diversified by its colonial history, making it a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This has further shaped the town into the 3 main districts.
The Colonial District
Since leaving the UK, I’ve become fascinated by the imprints of my ancestors in both Australia and Southeast Asia (although none that I’m proud of). In this eerily familiar colonial district, stand grand Georgian mansions, as well as Victorian and Art Deco buildings.
Although when you momentarily cast aside the impressive architecture, it’s hard to overlook that they were erected during a tumultuous time.
How about a free history lesson guys 👋🏻 [enthusiastic teacher voice coming strong!].
If you head to Suffolk House, you will see the former residence of Englishman Francis Light, now a mansion offering tours and a restaurant. He was the founder and ruler of the colony back in the 1700s.
During Light’s ruling, the Brits arrived in their masses and were granted trading rights in exchange for providing Penang military assistance against Siam (now Thailand.)
The British then did what they always do, trading with profusion, owning land and taking as much as they could, until the attack on Pearl Harbour shook the world. As soon as it was feared that Japan would attack, all of Penang’s Europeans left to go back home, leaving a completely defenceless island. ☹️
Japan then immediately ceased control of Penang for another 3 years, until the end of WW2. Those days were told to be the darkest in the island’s history and marked the end of British imperialism here. The island became a state of the Malaya Federation soon after.
Interestingly, the European vibe I felt was not only present through its architecture. I said to my Czech Sailor a few times that walking through the empty evening streets gave me the feeling of being back in Prague.
Little India
Little India is perhaps my favourite district in Georgetown. It is lively, colourful and exciting. Marching through its streets will lead you to a spicy trail of curry powder, cumin and marsala, with rhythmic Bollywood music blaring from speakers.
It is probably best to go on an empty stomach, as the aroma of curry and fresh roti bread being made before our eyes was too tempting! If you want to experience India without actually going there, I’d say this is a good compromise.
Chinatown
After the vibrancy of Little India, the other dominating landscape is that of the Chinese.
I was surprised to see so many Chinese Malays here, but looking back at history, it makes complete sense. Seafarers from China have been migrating to Penang since the 15th Century.
As well as the Europeans, the Chinese have shaped Georgetown’s landscape into what it is today. The Straits-style eclectic shophouses are a perfect example of East meets West.
One thing that mesmerised me in this area was the generations-old trade shops. You can walk past these shophouses and watch local Penangites busy at their craft, working in skilled professions that you barely see in action these days. They’d be anything from signboard engravers or rattan weavers, to traditional lantern or popiah skin makers (spring roll wraps).
The locals were gorgeous people, too. They would often greet us with a warm and curious stare, and it was lovely to see them flock together for dinner at their best-loved hawker stall.
Food
A teacher colleague of mine recently visited Georgetown with his wife and son. On the way from the airport, their taxi driver asked what they were planning on doing in Penang. They said they’re here to eat and asked where he’d recommend. The driver then started telling them about all his favourite haunts and took them on a lengthy detour to point out all the best places to go and where to avoid. By the end of the trip, their Google Maps lit up like a Christmas tree. When they offered him a tip at the end, he got extremely offended and said he didn’t want their money. He just wanted them to eat well.
I think it’s fair to say that food is kinda taken seriously here.
As well as being Malaysia’s culture capital, Penang is well known for being the food capital too. The KL locals I’ve spoken to say the food is different and better on the island.
Whilst fancier eateries are available, most of the best food is at hawker stalls, or more local, less fussy-looking joints. Although we tried a few, we really didn’t do the street food justice on our trip and usually opted for more western-looking spaces, which was a regret! Don’t be dumb like me! Our guesthouse was generous in recommending some places to try, otherwise, a safe bet is just to pull up a chair anywhere that’s busy. Or just ask your taxi driver.
We tried to get a varied dining experience in Penang and ate everything from Indian to Chinese, Thai, Italian and Nyonya, which was completely new for me.
Peranakan Chinese are predominantly found in Penang, Melaka, and Singapore, though communities also exist in other parts of Southeast Asia, like Phuket and Indonesia. Historically, they are female descendants of early Chinese settlers who have intermarried with Malay men. The women are called Nyonya, and the men are Baba.
Nyonya food is a blend of Chinese ingredients with spices and cooking techniques used by the Malay & Indonesian communities. Unlike Singapore and Melaka, this cuisine in Penang also has Thai influences, which was very prevalent in my inspiring meal at Kebaya.
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Needless to say, George Town captivated me from the second we arrived. So much so that I extended my 3-night stay to a week, as I also wanted to explore more of the island.
Whilst I initially thought it was a sleepy city, I couldn’t have been more wrong. Granted, it’s not the place for parties and cocktail bars (although a few can be found), but it is one of the best areas in Malaysia to experience art, culture, history, food… and heaps of charm.
Where to stay in George Town
I enjoyed staying close to the action in George Town and having everything within walking distance, as this was where we mainly hung out. There’s a great mix of guesthouses in cute, traditional Chinese shophouses that are generally good value for money, as well as larger hotels with all the mod-cons.
However, I much preferred our stay in a heritage building over a larger hotel, even though the latter had more specs like a swimming pool. The service was more friendly, the space had more personality, and I loved the vintage vibe. For that reason, I’d recommend a boutique hotel over a cardboard cutout hotel chain during your stay here.
Here are some I think you’ll like.
- Heritage Hideaway Retreat: I had a great stay at this family-run guesthouse. The room was well-styled and spacious, located in a quiet part of George Town but close enough to all the best bits. I think they’ve changed owners since we visited but the reviews are still great. Check them out here.
- East Indies Mansion: A charming, beautifully restored heritage mansion with all the mod-cons and friendly staff. When I revisit GT, I’d love to book this place. See what people are saying here.
- Campbell House: This stay looks delightful- tastefully decorated with traditional furnishings and set inside a historic building. It’s a little more pricey but appears to be great value for what you get, with small touches like a coffee machine in the room that will be appreciated. See their property here.
- Cheong Fatt Tze – The Blue Mansion: Yet another hotel in a striking, characterful historic building, which almost doubles up as a museum. It has extra perks like a dipping pool for those steamy days, a peaceful courtyard area, and a restaurant & bar. Read what guests are saying here.
- Eastern and Oriental Hotel: Located at the edge of George Town, this hotel is a good choice if you’d like the additional luxury of ocean views and an infinity pool, of course, still in a heritage building (it’d be rude not to in George Town). See their reviews here.
Getting Here
Penang is about a 4.5-hour drive (350km) north of Kuala Lumpur. We didn’t have our own car, but always rented one in Malaysia using GoCar. There are multiple GoCars dotted around KL, and we’ve found them more convenient and quicker to pick up/drop off than a regular car rental. They’re also better value.
If you’re a new GoCar user, you can register via their website and then book via the app. All you need is an internet connection to get going, which unlocks the door and gives you a code for the key in the glove compartment.
A few extra things to do in Penang
We spent a couple of days heading around the coast to stretch our legs through leafier areas of the island, which was a nice break from the concrete. Penang National Park is just a 40-minute drive away and offers a number of hiking trails to viewpoints and remote beaches accessible only by foot or boat.
We did the rainforest walk to Kerachut Beach. In its entirety, it’s a 3-hour, 7.4k out-and-back trail, which we almost had to ourselves. Time got ahead of us for the return leg, so we waited at the jetty for a boat back to the park entrance.
You can also take a boat or hike to Monkey Beach, which is roughly the same length and time as Kerachut. The beach is pretty, but a lot busier than Kerachut, although it has a few extra provisions if you fancy a casual drink or bite to eat.
Note, box jellyfish may be present in these waters around Penang. While there doesn’t seem to be an official stinger season, there have been more sightings reported during the rainy season, from May to October.
We also had a fun day out at Penang Tropical Fruit Farm. Perched on 25 acres, they are the largest fruit farm in SE Asia with over 200 edible varieties. I enjoyed taking a look around their shop, where you can buy some of their products.