There’s so much to see in Portugal that I think the best way to experience all its highlights is the way we did, on a road trip. It offers a lot of diversity in a relatively short space, and my favourite areas were where I least expected. This itinerary is wrapped in a bow with places to eat, play, sip and stay. As it’s meaty, it’s best read on a desktop. ❤️

Sitting in the prettiest spot by the ocean in Portinho da Arrábida, chowing the most divine fresh little olives I’d ever eaten, and watching the cheerful, happy-go-lucky locals go about their day, I could finally breathe again. I’ve spent the past year living in one of Asia’s most chaotic and polluted megacities, with (unofficially) 15 million city rats, having the life sucked out of me. This little turquoise cove housed just a few scores of people, the purest crystal-clear water, and a life that I didn’t want to leave. It couldn’t have been a more idyllic start to our trip. 

Portugal, for me, was everything I needed. A friendly, soul-cleansing nature escape that was rich in simple pleasures.

From the windy terraced vineyards in the Douro, where you’ll still find winemakers stomping on indigenous grapes with their neighbours to produce a tastier vintage, down to drop-dead gorgeous coastal dreams in Setúbal, this country is incredibly beautiful and laced with culture everywhere.

We did this journey last summer, and it was one of the best holidays we’ve had in a long time. From start to finish, I was fantasising about calling my boss to say that something unexpected happened, and I couldn’t make it back to Saigon. It all went by too fast!

What to expect?

Rooted in centuries-old traditions, Roman relics down almost every rue (street), and some of the most divine Medi food I’ve eaten in a long time, Portugal to me felt ripe and old, in the best possible way. 

It’s been well over a decade since I last visited the Mediterranean, and for most of that time I’ve lived far across the ditch in Oz. Coming back as a slightly more mature 30-something, I could appreciate it so much more this time around. Which, for me, is one of the great joys of growing older. 

I spent many holidays in Spain in my late teens and early 20s (as my then partner was a Madrileño), so I’m familiar with the Iberian Peninsula, but never quite made it across the border. What I loved about Portugal and struck out instantly was how humble and down-to-earth the locals were. We were really spoiled by their hospitality, especially in the north. They’re some of the friendliest Europeans I’ve met, and it was easy to feel at home here.

I also couldn’t get enough of the food (and wine!). Similar to Italian cuisine, it was beautifully simple and delicious, with a huge variety of seafood dishes, and absolutely smashing local produce. Plus, you get access to all the goodies from Spain too, like Jamón Iberico sliced fresh off the leg for breakfast. 

For some reason, I always had the impression that compared to Spain, Portugal was a much sleepier, quieter neighbour, even in areas like the south coast. But that wasn’t the case at all! Americans have been moving here in droves since the orange taco returned to office (who can blame them), and the Brits have continued to increase their presence in the Algarve, among others. The secret about this place is out. It probably was a long time ago.

When we visited in June, places like the Algarve and the northern city of Porto were pumping, and this was just before the state schools in Europe went on their summer holidays. While I enjoyed the Algarve, the first area we stayed in felt like we hadn’t quite left England, which is where I realised my mistake of not asking a local beforehand. When we got there, I messaged a lovely Portugal-based follower who gave some great tips on where to visit. Thankfully, the Algarve is huge, with many areas to explore. 

Your Friendly Portugal Road Trip Itinerary

Being 740 km from tip to toe, Portugal is a Goldilocks size for a 2- to 3-week road trip. It’s definitely more manageable than the ones I’ve done in Australia!

Our total drive time was approximately 15 hours and 1’500km, but you can totally tailor this route to your needs and wants.

My motto for any road trip (and indeed, everything else in life) is, Less is more. It’s easy to want to overload the itinerary, but then you don’t really do anything justice and end up needing another holiday to get over it!

For most stops, I dedicated three nights, which was a good amount of time to relax and enjoy each location. However, some places I wish I had more time for, which I’ll specify later.

As we visited in the summer, we purposefully kept the trip pretty coastal to make the most of the ocean breeze and dips, which was appreciated during those heatwaves.

We also found Portugal to be uncannily similar to our old stomping ground in Western Australia in terms of climate and landscapes, but in reverse. Portugal’s south is almost desert-like and bone-dry in the summer, with low-lying scrub and little tree cover. Then, as you head north, the landscape morphs from a yellow sunset to green, and it’s pleasantly a few degrees cooler.

Trip Map

To make things easier, I’ve added all the recommendations in this post to the map below 👇 so you can use it on the road. Hit the top right icon (that looks like a square), and it’ll open up on your phone in Google Maps.

Leg 1 // Lisbon to Portinho da Arrábida

55kms / 1 hours (approx.) 
Highlights: Scenic views, stunning beaches, small town vibes, hikes and wineries

The gym isn’t the first place I’d think of to get holiday inspiration. But on the treadmill in Saigon, as a sad little city rat, I often play one of the preset videos and imagine I’m running anywhere else! The video from Portinho da Arrábida got the most screentime, so when we decided to holiday in Portugal this summer, I knew we had to make a stop here. 

This place was like somewhere out of a romantic Italian film from the 80s. Saltwashed and laid-back with just a few traditional beach houses, a handful of family-run restaurants, the clearest water teeming with life, and a tiny community of friendly locals. It was both effortlessly charming and local. I’ve honestly been dreaming of it ever since and had to shed some tears of relief and joy, to be both out of the shithole city and here. 

I heard this spot is popular on weekends with Lisboans looking to beach bum, but we came mid-week, so it was relatively quiet. As it’s popular, with limited parking (and narrow Roman pathways that’ll give you the sweats), most visitors get escorted down in a beach buggy by some young local lads. They must have spent about 10 minutes of every hour driving, and the rest of their time kicking sand around in this crazy, beautiful spot, fishing from the jetty, enjoying cheeky swims and occasionally tensing their abs as they ogle at the chicks who walk past. I’d say, they’re living the dream.

We stayed in a cosy historic building owned by a really nice guy called Manuel, who runs Casa d’Adôa with his wife. We spent most of our time here getting onto Medi time, and you really don’t need to leave this place if you don’t want to. The beach is a 5-minute walk away and has a surprisingly delightful cafe. Each night, we enjoyed fresh fish dishes and great local wine at a restaurant just 3 minutes away.

Mostly, you come here to Portinho da Arrábida in the summer to beach bum and feel life return to your bones. This was by far my favourite beach stop on the entire trip. We only stayed here for 3 nights, but could have easily done more. 

If you can peel yourself away, here are a couple of spots I’d recommend checking out during your stay…

1. Drive to incredible viewpoints.
   The jaw-droppingly stunning route through South Viewpoint and Miradouro do Portinho da Arrábida is the route my gym video takes. It’s just incredible. 
2. Visit São Lourenço Town and José Maria Da Fonseca Winery
   São Lourenço is a really cute traditional town. Take a stop in Casa Negrito for some brunch and I promise you won’t be disappointed (the pastry selection is mwah). José Maria Da Fonseca Winery was highly recommended for us to visit and has been making the good stuff since 1834. Even if you don’t do a tour, you should stop by the shop to stock up on wine for the next leg.
3. Hiking trails in Parque Natural da Arrábida
   There are a number of walking trails within the 176 km² of Natural Park behind Portinho da Arrábida. For a list of local hikes, I’d recommend using All Trails. Here are deets of the one we almost did, had it not been for the heatwave!
   Subida do Javali (São Luís – Subida da Vigia) Trail ~ A moderate 7.9k loop, approx. 2h15.
   The trail is exposed for most of the way, so outside of those stinking hot summer days is best. The route looks pleasantly quiet and has sweeping coastal views, with a modest 280m elevation. I’ve marked the start of the trail on the map above (or wack these the trailhead coordinates into Google Maps: 38°32’33.3″N 8°56’15.5″W). For more info, including a route demo, head to All Trails (it may be worth doing an initial ‘Plus’ sign-up to the app for a week’s free trial, so that you have the route handy when you’re walking.)

Leg 2 // Portinho da Arrábida to Algarve

55kms / 1 hours (approx.)
Highlights: Beach time and surf spots

Between you and me, our holiday in Portugal was also a recce trip for the Sailor and I. We thought that the Algarve may be somewhere we’d want to base ourselves in the future, with its year-round warm weather, milder winters and kiteboarding spots. 

The southern coast is undoubtedly stunning, with some gorgeous beaches, and the ocean comes with less of a bite. Perhaps I didn’t spend enough time there, or visit the right place, but it didn’t connect with me as much as the north. I’m glad we didn’t miss the Algarve on our road trip, although I wish we had stayed in spots where locals mainly hang out.

As this holiday hotspot spans a generous 155 km of Atlantic Ocean coastline, I’d recommend staying in a couple of places while you’re here so you can see more of the highlights. 

Tip: As a local advised, if you’re keen to stay away from the most touristy areas, it’s best to avoid Albufeira and Quarteira completely. 

// Alvor

The first area we stayed at was a place called Alvor on the western side of the Algarve. For some reason, I thought I was booking somewhere quiet, although those more familiar with the Algarve might say it’s a relaxed place to stay for families and couples.

A fishing village at heart, and a tourist hotspot in the summer, Alvor attracts some holidaying locals but was mainly pumping with Brits. Because it was busy and felt commercial, I wasn’t a fan of the neighbourhood when we arrived, and it felt like somewhere in southern Spain. But after a couple of days, the Portuguese charm here started to shimmer through and it began to grow on me. 

Alvor isn’t short on places to dine (although there are a fair few tourist traps), with some cool shops to peek into, and a huge lake for kiteboarding if that’s your jam— check out Kiterr’s article for all the best spots. The beach itself is okay, if you like crowded ones that primarily attract tourists, but we visited nicer ones along the coast, like the next stop. To be honest, we didn’t spend much time here aside from eating dinner, but the location was convenient.

// Sagres

We came here both days we stayed in Alvor. Surfy Sagres is one of the places recommended to me by a local for a visit. Its beaches were our favourite ones to hang out in the Algarve, which is the area’s most popular pastime.

While it appears to attract many expat diginoms, touring couples and some families, Sagres was much less busy than Alvor, it’s super chilled out, and is a hotspot for surfers. It had a cool vibe and didn’t feel commercial, which is why I liked it. If I were to do this trip again, I would have stayed here instead.

Note: We came during the heatwave, which killed the wind, but I’ve been told this place can get pretty breezy, so pack a kite. 🪁

// Lagos

Lagos was another place that was recommended for us to visit, though sadly, we didn’t have enough time to check it out properly. Alongside Vilamoura on the eastern side of the Algarve, it attracts a mix of Portuguese and Brits, and while it’s busy, it’s also nice and central. There’s more going on here, with a vibrant old town, scenic hiking trails skimming clifftops, and of course, beaches. So, if you’re looking for a few more thrills beyond just beach bumming and chilling, you may want to base yourself in Lagos. 

// Armação de Pêra

Like the rest of the Algarve, this modest town of 5’000 was once just a humble fishing village. Armação de Pêra is still not exactly beefy, but it has now become a popular mid-sized resort town. Considering there are two very touristy centres either side of it (Quarteira and Albufeira), for me it still had a local feel, with predominantly Portuguese holidaymakers, marbled with some expats. 

On our first night, we came and had dinner at a restaurant on the beach. Although the beach was pretty packed, it had a really endearing, laid-back vibe. Locals came here to walk their dog. Kids spent hours being kids and kicking sand around. Families grouped together on deck chairs, yarning and enjoying quality time. I remember thinking how absolutely refreshing it was to see folks having fun like the good old days, and not just sitting there on devices, which is usually what I see here in Vietnam (and SE Asia in general 🙄) alongside chronic posers who spend hours taking the exact same pictures. And it was then I pondered about what living here might be like, which was a nice thought.

// Tavira

Things took an unfortunate turn on the day we visited Tavira. It was another place recommended for us to visit, and for good reason. There are countless online articles singing Tavira’s praises, about how it’s arguably the most charming, authentic town in the Algarve. And it is undeniably gorgeous.

Steeped in well-preserved history, with old, characterful houses decorated in traditional azulejos (ceramic tiles), and complete with a castle on top, the town looks like a walking museum. As ex-Pragsters, the Sailor and I kept saying how much it reminded us of the Czech capital aesthetically. However, the vibe here was quite subdued and less friendly than I’d experienced up to this point. Perhaps because it was another 40+ degree heatwave day, or as I could see, the city had had a lot of new expats move here, many of Indian origin. 

As the south coast’s most easterly city, just half an hour away from Spain, it took an hour to drive to Tavira. I’d bookmarked a local joint that was supposed to serve the best Peri-Peri chicken in town, which came to my attention while reading a book by a local spice connoisseur, Chilli Boy.

We were late in setting out, so were starving by the time we arrived at the small take-out Churrasqueira. Sadly, the Peri Peri place looked like it’d been closed for a while, so we gunned for the closest restaurant by the river. It was in a scenic spot near the old Moorish bridge, which the menu prices reflected, but we were too hungry to care by that point! Trying to order safe and not be too ripped off, the Sailor and I ordered a cod fishcake salad starter, and paid up with perhaps the unhappiest lady that lives in the Algarve. 

Afterwards, we talked ourselves into walking up the hill to the castle in the early afternoon heatwave (probably not the best time to do a city walk!), and I uncharacteristically had to keep stopping and was completely slumped of energy. I thought that maybe Saigon’s air-conditioned environment and lack of hiking had weakened me! I needed to stop to sit outside the castle and felt my stomach churning strangely.

We drove straight back to the hotel and I couldn’t do anything but sleep. I wasn’t sure if I had heatstroke or something else, and was checking various symptoms online. Then later that night, I realised what it was.

Funnily enough, even after years of living in Southeast Asia, eating at numerous hawker stalls on a plastic chair by the side of a road, I’ve never had food poisoning. And I never would have thought that the thing to take me down were three peasant morcels of overpriced fishcakes.

But I should have listened to my gut. When I first bit one, I thought it tasted a bit iffy. But then I saw the Sailor wharfing his, and he didn’t say anything, so I thought maybe they were just supposed to taste like that here, and just ate it.

My last couple of days in the Algarve were, unfortunately, in the hotel room, and for the remainder of the holiday, food, drink and activities were restricted. I also couldn’t stray too far away from the loo. Which was pretty shit, excuse the pun.

Although we didn’t do Tavira justice, sadly I don’t feel compelled to return. I did feel that people weren’t very welcoming of tourists, and I met a couple of locals who came across as really rude. Maybe it was just bad timing, or maybe not. 

Leg 3 // Algarve to Óbidos

55kms / 1 hours (approx.)
Highlights: Medieval village, ginjinha (cherry liqueur), and warm hospitality

The small medieval town of Óbidos has been on my radar for years. I came to know about it before Covid, when a professional kitesurfer I follow on Insta moved there and was posting content from his new playground. With a shallow, butter flat lagoon and swirly white sandbanks on either side, it looks like an incredible place to ride! Even if you’re not a windsport enthusiast, Lagoa de Óbidos is the largest coastal lagoon system in Portugal, and there are a number of walking trails around it to stretch your legs. 

Being an easy 80km from Lisbon, Óbidos is a popular spot for locals and tourists to pop up for a day trip, but staying here is more satisfying. I booked accommodation on a cute working pear farm just a 20-minute drive from the old town, and it was run by the friendliest family. I don’t remember experiencing hospitality quite like it.

Obidos is drenched in history, literature and cherry liqueur. For a small place with only 3’100 locals, it’s punching its weight in gravy. Not only is it considered one of the most beautiful, well-preserved medieval towns in Europe (the castle was voted one of the 7 Wonders of Portugal in 2007), but it’s also a UNESCO City of Literature. With an impressive collection of bookshops, and an annual lit fest each October, it’s a great place for book bugs to indulge. There are, in fact, more books to be found in Obidos than there are locals, at roughly half a million.

For bookstores, check out:

1. The converted chapel, Livraria de São Tiago.
2. Floor-to-ceiling titles at Livraria do Mercado.
3. The golden oldie collection at Livraria Artes e Letras.

Soaking up the history and bohemian culture on a walk through the old town is a great way to spend a day. To start, head to the city’s main entrance, Porta da Vila [map], where you might get lucky with a fado performance (there’s more on fado coming up in the Porto leg). Then, chuck a left and climb up some steep stone stairs to initiate your visit with a walk around the castle wall.

This 1.5k trail probably wouldn’t be allowed in places like the UK for safety reasons, as there are no guardrails and the drop down is decent! But for us, that added to the excitement. The views from the top were awesome, both of the distant rolling fields and the whitewashed houses within them, where amazingly, locals still live. The fact that the buildings are still inhabited makes this town feel authentic and not like a tourist trap.

(Note, there are stairs leading down at various points along the wall, so you don’t have to commit to the full 1.5k… we only did half!) 

After, take detours and explore the cute little medieval lanes, or keep to the main street, Rua Direita, where there are plenty of shops to peek in for souvenirs, local handicrafts, cans of keepsake sardines at Museu de Sardinha, and a cheeky tipple of the Portuguese liqueur, ginjinha. This regional specialty is made by macerating Morello cherries in brandy, so it’s got a bit of a kick, with a little sugar and spice. It’s delicious, but unfortunately, I could only stomach a tiny sip, and yet again, I watched the Sailor consume all the goodies. (Gastro here was like torture!).

We spent two nights in Óbidos, which, for me, was enough time. However, I’d factor in more sleeps if you plan to hike and kitesurf.

Leg 4 // Óbidos to Porto

55kms / 1 hours (approx.)
Highlights: Port, culture and city fun

An Aussie teacher mate of mine back in Saigon said his favourite place in all of Portugal was the north, around Porto. Another Spanish teacher at school concurred with the same, so I arrived with fairly high expectations.

Porto was pumping with visitors from all over, Americans, Aussies, continental Europeans, Brits, South Americans and the first Asian tourists I’ve seen on the whole trip. And it’s clear to see why. 

Lisbon may be Portugal’s capital city, but Porto is the culture capital. Without trying, it’s timelessly cool, like a James Dean scene with his “Little Bastard” Porsche, filled with discerning Bourdain-inspired foodies keen to sample the modern gastronomy (hands up), and it has a completely different vibe to anywhere I’ve visited before. 

Built upon the hilly banks of the Douro River, the city is a sight for sore eyes. It’s a terraced maze of historic buildings, vibrant piazzas, and narrow cobblestone laneways with eateries you can’t help but peek into, all leading down to a moment of calm on the river, lined with the goods that make this city most famous, Port wineries.

As you can imagine, being a popular spot with old Roman streets means that parking is not road trip-friendly at all. It took us about 2 hours to navigate a short distance through a maze of traffic, park up and reach our accommodation unscathed in an Uber, a mere 1.5 km away. 

Our UberX driver was a very confident, heavy-footed Brazilian, behind the wheel of a pretty fancy convertible. On one painfully tight right turn, which led into a weeny alleyway that we could have sworn was for pedestrians only, we watched in shock as he attempted to take it. The car got lodged, sounded like it got scratched, he reversed, and we insisted, “It’s fine! We’ll walk the rest of the way!” But he was adamant and tried again. Somehow, by miracle, the car was okay, but man, I almost had puppies in the back! 

If you like cities and the hustle and bustle, then you could easily spend days leisurely soaking up Porto’s offerings, as my honeymooning mates did last summer. Otherwise, I’d recommend waiting until the low season to visit (if it exists, a local I spoke to didn’t seem to think so). Expect crowded streets, popular restaurants to have queues and traffic to be a nightmare. I was personally ready to move on after 3 nights.

Here are a few things to keep you out of trouble in Porto, from our own experience and recommendations from our lovely Airbnb host and teacher friends.

1. Sip port at centuries-old wineries.
   South of the Douro River is technically not Porto, but Vila Nova de Gaia, or simply Gaia to Portuenses. Traditionally, this is where Port wine is sent from the valley to age in oak barrels before being shipped around the world, so it’s peppered with cellars offering tastings and tours. I bookmarked a couple of highly rated ones to check out:—
   ~Porto Augusto’s [map]: a family-run affair with over 3 generations of winemakers. They offer a well-rated 20-minute tour for 15€, with the option to stay afterwards and sample sips from their à la carte menu (10€ is refunded if you buy a bottle). Daily tastings are between 11 am and 6pm; book online in advance.
   ~ Kopke [map]: my friends really enjoyed the port flight here, which is well paired with chocolates.
   ~ Quevedo Lodge [map]: my recently eloped buddy said she got a great bottle of the good stuff from here. Their tastings are also well reviewed, with optional cheese pairings.
   ~ Caves Vasconcellos [map]: a small producer offering a cellar tour and tasting with two flight options- either 3 for 26€, or a flight of 5 for 135€, which includes an 80-year-old tawny. Best to book ahead, especially in the peak season.
   
   If you fancy sampling a range of ports from different producers, I think this port tasting masterclass sounds like a great option. Guests try 5 ports from different vineyards, including white, tawny, Ruby, and LBV, while brushing up on their knowledge and yarning with other travellers. Groups are intimate, with no more than 10, and many people said it’s loads of fun.
2. Eat.
   There’s a whole host of unique gastronomy in Porto that I was so keen to try. Damn those little cod fishcakes in Tavira! As many restaurants here are small and Roman-sized, either book in advance (if an option), come early, or expect a wait. Here are some places that I’ve tried or had bookmarked.
   ~ Baccalau [map]: A small, cosy restaurant by the river, and worth the half-hour wait to get in. We ate one of the best meals on the whole trip here- absolutely delicious, melt-in-your-mouth, perfectly baked cod main with chunky cuts of potato gratin, and we couldn’t resist a dessert. Service and wines were awesome too.
   ~ Taberna dos Mercadores [map]: We tried to get a table at this his 16-seater gaff, but the queue was over 16 man deep and you can’t book in advance (annoying). If you have more patience than I do, this family-run restaurant is known for its seafood dishes, including a signature octopus rice and flamed tableside salt-baked cod. 
   ~ Cachorrinho Gazela [map]: A casual joint, which looks great for an early arvo or evening beer snack. They’re popular for their hot dog special (not your usual kind—watch Tony’s Porto episode for more specs). I was bummed not to try it!
   ~ Muu Steakhouse [map]: If you’re feeling more steak than seafood, the smells escaping from this restaurant were divine. We tried to get a table, but regretfully, they sent us away with our tails between our legs as they were booked out. Reserve a table, and order the T-bone for me.
   ~ Cervejaria Brasão Aliados [map]: recommended by our Airbnb hosts as the best place in Porto to get the city’s famous dish, Francesinha. Eaten with a knife and fork, this weirdly mesmerising sandwich is packed with triple meat, slathered in melted cheese and topped with a tomatoey beer sauce. (Advance bookings essential).
3. Walk.
   Porto is jammed with incredible architecture, museums, street art, theatres, churches, bookstores, gardens, landmark bridges, and viewpoints. It was made for wandering through the rues and getting lost. However, if you’re like the Sailor and start getting angsty without a route on Google Maps, check out the one I marked here. Or for the history buffs, consider a walking tour with a local guide. 
   
4. Visit Mercado do Bolhão
   After renovations, a fantastic produce market recently reopened to the public. It felt like a boutique food fair, housing 80+ largely family-run stalls selling everything from delicious pastries to local cured meats, cheese, olives, and the rest (come on an empty stomach!). I bought some tasty charcuterie bits and gifts to take back to the UK, while the Sailor sipped on local wine which you can walk around with— check their web here.
5. Take a scenic river cruise to the Douro.
   Every time I saw a boat passing through the Rio Douro, I thought how romantic it would be to experience the region from the water. If you’re following this itinerary to a T, then you’re heading to the Douro Valley next anyway and may want to skip this ride. However, for those of you short on time, or if you simply want to maximise your DV experience, then you may want to consider a daily cruise to some quintas (vineyards). This is how most people explore the valley; however, I implore you not to miss staying a few nights there! Check out this top-rated tour with A Day in Douro, which visits 2 wine regions and includes a farm-to-table lunch. 
6. Listen to Fado.
   With a number of venues around town, Porto is a great place to listen to traditional and soulful Fado music. I had no idea what it was until I watched Tony’s Porto episode. Centred on saudade (a melancholic longing), fado is soulful and mournful, and originated 200 years ago in working-class Lisboa. It was a way to express the hard times, like lost Sailors out at sea, broken hearts or the challenges of life as a commoner. Our local hosts recommended checking out the highly rated A Casa do Fado (see their web, or read reviews and book on Get Your Guide), and Casa da Guitarra (web or GYG).

A British love for wine, to inventing Port 🍷

Although the UK is producing some smashing white wines and bubbles these days, historically, it needed to source its liquid grapes from the continent. France was their preferred bearer until the 17th century, when the French wars led them to look elsewhere, and then they steered south.

With its sun-ripened full-bodied reds, the Douro became a newfound favourite. However, with longer trips back to faraway Blighty, it became more difficult to preserve the wine’s quality. So when a pair of British brothers decided to add brandy to their shipment of wine as a preservation strategy, something stuck. This new drink, sweeter and stronger in flavour with oaky notes, quickly became a smash hit with the thirsty Brits, and alas, Port was born.

It’s this close connection with the region—and when a North American root-sucking aphid-like insect (called phylloxera) decimated many wineries across Europe in the 19th century, causing locals to sell up— that many Brits started buying vineyards in the Douro. This is why you’ll find many ports with British names, such as Graham, Croft, and Taylor.

For an interactive wine history of the area that dates back to the Romans, take a deeper dive at the World of Wine museum.

Leg 5 // Porto to Douro Valley

55kms / 1 hours (approx.)
Highlights: Quintas (wineries) and unwinding

As well as Portinho da Arrábida, the Douro Valley was my favourite place along the whole road trip. Our stay was extremely relaxing, and it was the perfect setting to unwind before our flight back home.

As this leg pumped out quite a few words, I wrote about our stay in a separate article. It includes details about our awesome stay, where we did a wine tasting and cellar tour, and a peaceful forest hike. Check back again soon for the full article!

Getting Around 

Car Hire 

The Sailor hired our car from Centauro in Lisbon, which has a great fleet of motors and the price was very reasonable. For 2.5 weeks, we paid about 480€, which included full insurance with zero excess. Centauro depot is also close to Lisbon Airport and they offer a shuttle bus transfer, however we ordered an Uber instead, as they were really busy and there wasn’t an orderly system. But, their customer service at the depot was great.

Toll Roads

There are toll roads all over Portugal, and some legs can get expensive. Centauro’s car had an electronic toll card inside, so we could get out right away and didn’t have to fuss along the route. They deducted the toll from the deposit at the end of our trip.

When is the best time to do a road trip in Portugal?

We really enjoyed doing this road trip in the summer, though if we’d come a few weeks later than perhaps not. I wouldn’t do it on school holidays because it would be uncomfortably busy and hard to find accommodation on many legs (plus, it’d be a lot more expensive).

In June, the heatwaves stopped us from doing city walks or hiking between Lisbon and the Algarve, although I was told that it’s uncommon for them to be so frequent and intense. Nevertheless, until you head north, the summers are all about beach bumming! 

If I were to do it again, I’d say the shoulder seasons (outside the peak summer hols) would be the best time for the weather, and availability and price of accommodation. If an option, consider May to mid-June, or September to October.

* * *

If you’re reading this, then you made it to the end. Well done, legends!

I hope you find as much joy as I did on your road trip around Portugal. Now I’ve laid out the itinerary, all you have to do is organise the playlist.

As always, drop a line below if you have any questions or just want to say g’day. x

Field of the Castles, by Fernando Pessoa

Europe lies, reclining upon her elbows:
From East to West she stretches, staring,
And romantic tresses fall over
Greek eyes, reminding.

The left elbow is stepped back;
The other laid out at an angle.
The first says Italy where it leans;
This one England where, set afar,
The hand holds the resting face.

Enigmatic and fateful she stares
Out West, to the future of the past.
The staring face is Portugal.