We almost didn’t make it to the Douro Valley. My exact bookmark note was ‘too shit hot at this time of year’, after reading a Lonely Planet article which said that summer isn’t the time to visit. I imagined somewhere similar to Western Australia’s bone-dry summer, where the temperature rises about 1 degree per kilometre as you head inland, with a tormenting dose of bush flies!
If it wasn’t for Manuel, our gracious host in Portinho da Arrábida, saying this was his favourite place in the whole of Portugal, then I may not have made it our last stop. And I’m so glad we didn’t miss it.
The Douro Valley begins 60 miles inland of Porto and snakes all the way to the Spanish border. It was the most scenic landscape on our road trip around Portugal, and perhaps the most stomach-turning to drive through. It’s laced with a never-ending museum of wine terraces built steeply up the valley, which the locals know like the back of their hand. I was still recovering from gastro I’d caught earlier in Tavira, so couldn’t wait to get out of the car!
Our stay was perched in the cute Santa Cruz do Douro parish, a very charming neighbourhood that could have been out of a fairytale. After busy legs of our road trip along the Algarve, which were heaving with visitors, I was thankful I booked here last. All I kept thinking was how amazing it would be to live somewhere like this. The past year in Saigon has been a never-ending attack of noise and chaos, and I’ve been counting down the months until I leave. This place was the complete opposite, and just so happens to grow my favourite grapes.
The valley was pleasantly a few degrees cooler than the Algarve, thanks to its elevation. Our apartment was set inside a huge terracotta villa, which had a fish lens view of the village.
Most of our time was spent exerting as little energy as possible. Turning the page of a book. Flipping over on the sunbed. And many upward arm movements with a glass of vino.
From our infinity pool, we watched the community go about their day. Every now and again, Pablo from down the road would huff and puff up the hill on his Piaggio-sounding scooter. In the evenings, the locals would eat al fresco as a family for hours at sunset, sending a mellow hum of conversation throughout the valley. The local church would play its Disney-like tune every half hour and on the hour, which even during an afternoon nanna nap, made me smile.
One morning, before setting off on an afternoon hike, the Sailor went to get a few breakfast supplies from the corner shop, which couldn’t have been more local. It housed a mishmash of provisions like thick slabs of pancetta and huge rounds of cheese, frozen octopus and fresh eggs with poop on the side. It was no bigger than a small shack, with a crate of onions holding the door open.
When he returned, with toilet paper in one hand and eggs in the other, he said it was like a hoarder’s house! Old ladies came here for their daily chin-wags, while patrons shopped like they were in TK-Maxx.
If you want to take a breather, step out of this fast-paced digital world and back to simpler times (yes please), the Douro is your Tardis.
Jumping Dog
I couldn’t wait to finally visit a winery. We waited until the last day, hoping the gastro would have subsided. The Sailor found an awesome-sounding Quinta (wine estate) to do a tour and tasting just before sunset. It was 5 pm and we were halfway there. I started feeling iffy again after lunch, so we were umming and ahhing whether to call it off.
Out of all the experiences in Portugal, this was one I really wanted to do. So decided, fuck it. I quickly found a pharmacy, was helped by a kind English-speaking pharmacist, and swallowed an Imodium. Job done.
Quinta Barqueiros d’Ouro is run by a lovely father-son duo, Jose & Diogo. Originally from Porto, they packed up and moved to the valley 12 years ago and learnt everything on the job.
The views here were absolutely stunning- the camera does not capture the whole of it. It’s pretty impressive to think that these landscapes have been producing the good stuff for over 2’000 years. This is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Which blows my mind, after having only visited wineries in Australia, whose most senior vineyard dates back less than 200 years.
The tour group of us, a lovely couple of American lesbians, and a Polish husband and wife, were entertained to learn that Jose and his father still use traditional methods to make their red wine. They crush grapes by foot to give them more control over the flavour profile (and let’s face it, what fun!), which is a practice widely used throughout the valley. Unlike mechanical methods, crushing grapes by foot doesn’t damage the seeds to produce harsh, bitter tannins.
Each year, they round up the family and neighbours to harvest and begin production. By the afternoon, they’re already standing 4-in-a-row in a vat, squishing grapes with the music pumping, stamping in unison to ensure an even press and having a big block party.
“How do you know when to stop stomping?” I asked Diogo.
“It takes roughly 4 hours.”
Only 25% of grapes grown in the valley are actually used for port, I was surprised to learn. As was the inquisitive Polish guy, who seemed to be asking very specific questions as research for a potential move.
The rest of the grapes are bottled into red, white and rose. This is because each year they are given a quota based on last year’s sales in order to keep prices competitive. As Diogo explained, Port is still considered an old person’s drink and demand is slowly decreasing globally. Therefore, production is regulated in order to maintain market value.
We sampled all of their range— a white, rose and red wine, as well as their white port and tawny, which was vacuumed out of the barrel using a wine thief. The tawny was my favourite (always had expensive taste!), though not available by the bottle.
The Quinta’s wine range is called Salta Cão, which translates to ‘jumping dog’. In the logo are stone slab stairs, which were traditionally used to move between terraces. As they’re so big, when the dog walked on them, it looked like he was jumping.
* * *
We only had three days in the Douro Valley, but along with Portinho da Arrábida, they were my favourites in Portugal. If I could, I would have dedicated a week here, or not left at all. I honestly didn’t want to leave this place.
There’s a magic to the Douro that’s hard to capture in words or pictures. Perhaps it’s the short folk who live on the mountain here that seem a bit hobbit-like and fairytale. Maybe it’s the mystical glow that sinks into the valley at dusk. Or it could be the fossilised Roman traditions.
Whatever it is, you just have to come and experience it for yourself. ✤
A bit more port juice
About 2-3 days after squashing the grapes, Brandy is added to the wine to stop the fermentation process and gives the port its boozy flavour. It was my first time trying white port, which (as the name suggests) is made from white grapes. Tawny is made from red, and must be aged for at least 2 years in oak barrels to allow for oxygen to interact with it, and to give it time to develop its moreish flavour.
Where to stay in the Douro Valley
Similar to the vast Algarve, it took me ages to figure out where to stay! But I don’t think you can really go wrong in the Douro.
The Valley is split into 3 sections. Travelling inland from Porto, they are:
- Baixo Corgo— the oldest sub-region with the most vineyards.
- Cima Corgo— considered the heart of the Douro, with many well-known and high-end quintas.
- Douro Superior— which borders Spain, is the hottest, driest and most remote region, but produces top quality wines.
Technically, where we stayed was in the ‘Porto District’, just before Baixo Corgo. Staying here was only an hour and a half-ish from Porto, which was very convenient, and meant that we didn’t lose too much time on the road (trust me, these windy roads can be a bit butt-clenching to navigate!). Being closer to Porto, you might think it would be busier with tourists, but it felt very local. We found more tourists in Baixo Corgo.
Here are a few places I’d recommend staying.
Budget and Mid-Range accom
- Solar Do Douro: This was where we stayed for 3 nights. It was so peaceful, well kitted out and the apartment size was awesome. Having a refreshing pool and a restaurant downstairs was an added bonus. I booked through Booking.com.
- Quinta Barqueiros d’Ouro: The quinta and holiday stay where we did the port tasting and cellar tour. The river and winery views here are dreamy, and our tasting started at 5:30, so I really wanted to stay the night afterwards and continue drinking port! To book a port tasting with Diogo, request to book via their website. They offer English or Portuguese tours between 11 am and 5:30 pm. Accom bookings via Airbnb.
- Hotel Casa do Tua: I initially booked here; however before our stay, they had an unexpected electrical problem which meant that they had to have equipment repairs and couldn’t get the sparkies around for several days (reminded me of my days living in remote Western Australia!). These guys were great at communicating with us though, and we received a prompt refund from Booking.com. Their river views from the pool were what made me book, and they seemed like great value for money. Here’s their web.
For something more special
- Lavandeira Douro Nature & Wellness: We came here for lunch one day. The food was average (or perhaps it was the dish we ordered), but the setting was incredible. The estate is massive and peaceful, with vineyards and an old car collection as you enter. The rooms are modern-country chic with gorgeous green views. Check them out here.
- Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta: This stunning hotel is in the Cima Corgo/Viseu district, just south of the river. If my teacher budget could afford, then I would have booked here. Everything from the modern country styling to the views from the pool, plus the fact that they’re a winery, the whole thing just looks yum. Added perks are their garden-to-table restaurant and ancient history, as their vineyard estate is 500 years old. Their reviews speak for themselves.
- Quinta Nova Nossa Senhora do Carmo: Also in Cima Corgo, but north of the river in Pinhão, this place also looks sure to wow the pants off you, for something special. With a vineyard history of over 250 years (including once being owned by the royal family), this manor house seems impeccably restored. It has 11 rooms, dreamy Rio Douro views, with a well-reviewed restaurant, wine museum and walking trails on site. Book here.
Hiking Trail
Marão has Blue Blood Trail (Trilho O Marão tem Sangue Azul)
Moderate/ 8.2k out & back/ approx. 3h30.
We loved this hike. We didn’t get to do the whole trail (thanks to you know what), but it was very peaceful, pleasantly shaded by trees and took us along a scenic stream. This path felt like it’s been around for a long time, with some cool Roman relics along the way.
To park up, drive to the marker I’ve pinned on the map, where there’s plenty of space to park. Then there are two options for walking this trail:
- Like we did, as a partial loop. After parking, head east towards the ‘Option 1: Trilho O Marão tem Sangue Azul’ marker. Taking this path will lead you downhill towards the stream. After, you can return and come out at the official trailhead, also marked on the map (you’ll pass a park ranger’s cottage on your right as you head back up to your car).
- OR, trot west and head downhill towards the official trailhead (you’ll pass a park ranger’s cottage on your left as you go). The trailhead will be on your right, with a clear wooden sign in front and an information board.
The route is clearly marked and easy to navigate. We only walked for an hour, stopping for the return walk when the trail began to head uphill again. (For a demo of the route, head to All Trails.)